Pearl, the 93' Explorer

troysladeck

Member
Joined
Jun 28, 2023
Messages
22
Slow days at work means that I should start up my build thread!

My first offroad truck was a Jeep XJ. And while I love it, its certainly limited when it comes to high speed desert situations. I wanted something that could handle whoops a little better but still have 4wd, trunk space, and 4 seats. Thats when the 1st gen explorer platform caught my eye. TTB, Plenty of aftermarket support, and a very capable truck with relatively little mods / money. After about 8 months of looking, I found one that looked to be a perfect starter for a project in December 2023.
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1993 Ford Explorer Limited, 4.0 V6, 4wd. Bone stock, 153k miles, and owned by an old Lady that named her "Pearl". I met her at Fast Auto Loans and paid her $1500. Slight damage to the front right fender but otherwise exterior is in really good shape. The paint is all there and will shine up nice. Tranny was supposedly recently rebuilt. All the leather looks perfect except for the front two seats. Drove an hour home no problem!
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First mod was some 32" BFG's I had laying around. The truck looked really good at stock height and big tires. Bonus was it didn't rub at all because of the stock wheels. I went ahead and changed all the fluids and refreshed the cooling system just to ensure everything looked good. New battery and some seat covers for the front. Got the transfer case motor fixed so that way 4x4 worked. Ready to rip!
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Went for a weekend camping trip out in Wickenburg. If you haven't been, its a rad experience. Some technical trails, but the main attraction is a 4 mile long river bed that you can drive up. In the spring the creek flows pretty good. You can camp pretty close to the creek.
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We got home from Wickenburg and had a trip planned the following weekend to Sedona. I had some parts collecting in the garage so I figured I should get them on before going. Of those parts were cheap ebay front 2" spacers, extended shackles, and front bilstein shocks. Got everyhting on fairly quickly, but had to make custom mounts for the Bilsteins on the radius arm. Really ghetto fab but got the job done in the meantime. This stage was just a cheap way to get by and have a little more travel than stock, and still have a stock feeling ride.
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Did surprising well in Sedona. The trails were slow and rocky but the ride was pretty comfy. I even led the way in front of my Bronco buddy. I haven't been able to get my 4Low to work so that sucks, but it still did fine.

Truck stayed like this for a couple months. Wasn't that impressive but had a bunch of little issues that needed addressed and thats what I focused on. Got the heater working, the AC working, had ignition issues and some vacuum leaks that I figured out. Did new ball joints, wheel bearings, spindle bearings, axle seals, and manual hubs. Just wanted to make it as reliable as possible.

Some cash was burning a hole in my pocket and I decided it was time to start collecting parts to put some actual decent suspension on the rig. First off was some rear shocks.
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Found some beat to shit raptor shocks for $50 on marketplace and swooped them. Rusted pretty bad, but the shafts were clean and the internals looked good. Took them apart, had the outers sandblasted, hit em with a can of Alloy armor, new seals and oil, had Kevin @ Dialed Shock Prep work his magic on the shim stack and I put them back together. Final product below. I ended up taking off the shaft bump because it was not needed after all.
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Ended up buying a Cookcraft rear shock mount from Ryan, some Solo radius arms from GFE, 2" lift skyjacker springs, and some new axle pivot bushings to get the front end tight and right.
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First up was the front end. Stripped everything down, removed the old radius arm crossmember, and started lining up the new radius arms.
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Welded on the lower shock mounts and hit it with some allow armor
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Got both beams pushed forward slightly and cycling real nice. New bumps stops also, just universal ones from Prothane.
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It flies!
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Next up was the rear. Got it knocked out in 1 day. The hardest part was busting out the factory shock crossmember rivets. The process that worked for me was grinding down the bolt head, then punching out the remainder with an air hammer. Still took forever though. Once those were out the Cookcraft mount just about slid in. Highly recommend
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A lot of work for it to look exactly the same as it did before LOL
 
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First impressions were awesome. Even with only having a 2" lift, it soaked up bumps and whoops really well. I went through one whoop section near my house as fast I could and it just floated. Coming from a solid axle jeep to this was a massive difference! TTB has my heart. Now keep in mind I am still on stock leaf springs, so its only going to get better when I decide to do a cut n turn and Deavers. But at least its at a good spot right now and ready to upgrade when I'm ready to.

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Mid June 2024, the wife and I did an overnight trip up to Big Bear and was the first time putting in some considerable dirt miles with the new radius arms and rear shocks. Super happy with the suspension. One of the front bump stops is starting to fall apart already so at least I know im using all my travel :p

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Moved to Tucson, AZ mid July 2024 and the Explorer gets the garage (probably for the first time in its life). Went ahead and replaced the whole power steering system because it was leaking bad and I dont want to mess up the garage floor. Should have been done a while ago but just needed an excuse!

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Quick systems check last Saturday at Redington Pass, Tucson. Awesome area with tons of water flow during rain
 
This week's project is the transfer case. I have been messing with it since day 1 and I still can't get the transfer case motor to shift into 4Low. 1st gen explorers are known to have issues with the electronic shift motor. Its an over complicated system that isn't too reliable, and the desirable BW1354 manual transfer case is the most popular option for a swap. BUT I dont have a manual transfer case or have any available nearby, so I've decided to make my own manual selector that attaches onto the transfer case where the motor was.

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This is going to sound kind of crazy but I think it will work. The plan is to drill a hole in the end plate of the motor and weld a shaft to the gear that connects to the transfer case. From there I'm going to use a 1/10 scale RC car transfer case to act as a "v-drive" and allow me to run another shaft into the cab down by my feet. I'm sure that sounds weird but I'll post photos when the parts come in (y)
 
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This week's project is the transfer case. I have been messing with it since day 1 and I still can't get the transfer case motor to shift into 4Low. 1st gen explorers are known to have issues with the electronic shift motor. Its an over complicated system that isn't too reliable, and the desirable BW1354 manual transfer case is the most popular option for a swap. BUT I dont have a manual transfer case or have any available nearby, so I've decided to make my own manual selector that attaches onto the transfer case where the motor was.


This is going to sound kind of crazy but I think it will work. The plan is to drill a hole in the end plate of the motor and weld a shaft to the gear that connects to the transfer case. From there I'm going to use a 1/10 scale RC car transfer case to act as a "v-drive" and allow me to run another shaft into the cab down by my feet. I'm sure that sounds weird but I'll post photos when the parts come in (y)
Interested to see what you come up with here. I also have an explorer with no low range.
 
The gear for the motor doubles as all the gear position sensors for the dash 4x4 lights. So ideally i’d like to leave all the sensors in place that way my lights still work. I tapped an M5 thread down the middle of the gear shaft and thats going to be where my whole contraption connects to. Drilled a hole out of the cover for the bolt to pass through, going to ream it out a lil bit and add a grommet to keep everything dry inside
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will be trading out this hobo frieght bolt for a longer 10.9 one
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Upon final installation I’m going to add a whole bottle of loctite to keep that bolt from unscrewing from the gear. I don't want to weld it in place because the clearances inside there are tight. If I have to, I will, but for now I hope loctite will hold it. The gear is spinnable by hand so not much pressure
 
Took an afternoon rip out to 3 Pools yesterday. Its crazy how much the Tucson area cools down in the afternoon. I never thought I’d be able to offroad in the desert in the middle of summer but here I am 🤷🏽‍♀️
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TTB DUDES- what are you guys running for front bump stops? My brand new Prothane one is already falling apart on the drivers side.
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More work on the transfer case manual conversion today. Ended up tapping an M6 bolt into the gear and drowning it in loctite. Added a little grommet to the inside to keep the sensors dry. The old motor has now been converted to a bolt sticking out of the back but all the electrical sensors are intact.
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I then made my hole in the cab for where I want the shaft to come through. Bought a hollow bolt that matches the inner diameter of my shafts to act as a passthrough
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Some of the parts came in today, including the RC car transfer case thats being used as a v-drive. Welded up a couple of the shafts also
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Mock up below
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Going to hard mount the v-drive block and then will have to check all my joint angles to make sure nothing binds. The rc car transfer case has a 1:2 ratio which works out perfect. 1 full turn for 4H and another full turn for 4L. Waiting on 2 more mini u-joints to show up and then I should have everything needed to finish this up 🤘🏾
 
This things rad! I’m in Tucson too. Tanque verde area. Let me know next time you cruise Redington I’d be happy to join. I just recently ended up with a straight axle’d explorer
What axles does it have?
 
Made a Kustom knob that goes right underneath the drivers seat
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Whipped up some more custom driveshafts and hooked everything up
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IT WORKS!!! Took it around the block and shifted through all the modes (2hi, 4hi, and 4lo) and it worked perfect. Its even easier to spin then I expected, probably because the mini T-case is 1:2 ratio. Due to all the mini u-joints, theres a lot of play but I dont mind. Overall it worked just as intended. I think I may be the first person to ever do something like this with RC car parts so thats cool 🤣

Going to pull everything off, double check my welds, paint the driveshafts, RTV the motor housing to the t-case, and reconnect the electrical. Then i’m done! Onto the next project
 
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Mounted a 22” light bar behind the bumper. Fit behind there without any cutting. Had to fab up my own mounts and weld them to the bumper so it would sit flush. Losing a lot of usable light with it being behind the bumper but I think it looks better than a 6” pod inside each cut out. Will test it out this weekend
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Clean! I mounted two s2s in my grille spaced between the openings. Love the amber output.
Those S2's prob have more light output than this whole light bar lol. How do you like the amber? I've only ever run clear lights before. Thought I'd change it up
 
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