Noah's Long Travel'd 4x4 Silverado build

RadoNoah

Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2022
Messages
28
My name is Noah i am also known as RadoNoah


Truck Information

Model: 2007 Chevy Silverado Classic 4wd Z71

Engine: 5.3 L59

Transmission: 4L80e W/ 2800 stall Cicle D Converter and Trucool 40k Transmission cooler

Body/Exterior: Extended Cab Short Bed

Suspension: Front: JD Fabrication 4wd gen 1 Long travel kit, Carbon 2.5x10 Coilovers and 2.0x2 bumps
Rear: 9.5" SF 14 bolt, Deaver F87, CWF Shackles and hangers, Bilstein 5100's

Exhaust: Speed Engineering 1" 7/8 Long tube headers, catless Y pipe and Magnaflow dumped before axle

Wheels/Tires: 17" Method Double standards custom powdered purple on 35x12.5 Toyo MT's

Electrical/Lighting: All bulbs converted to LED, All on mod. Rigid 28" Combo bar, 30" Midnight pro, 2 spot pods up front, 2 Flood pods, Rear facing amber and SR-Q Reverse lights

Sound system: Pioneer AVH-200 deck, 600w Diamond audio 4 channel amp powering 2 DES 6x9's up front and 2 5.25 in the rear, Cerwin Vega 1000w amp powering Diamond shallow 12"

Performance: Full bolt on's and 91 tune by Aaron at All Out Tuning

Build: As of July 24 2022

The day I got it 5/17/18




Truck had a exhaust leak from in between the manifolds and y pipe, I've always wanted long tube headers so decided that this was the time. Did the headers and got it tuned. completely changed the way the truck drove for the better.



This is where things really start hitting the fan, went for a quick impromptu night wheeling trip with friends. Truck was running great so much more fun with tune and trans tune till I decieded to rip some doughnuts. I slowly watched my oil pressure drop from a good 45 to 0 real quick. shut it off, checked to see and i was good on oil level. started it up and no oil pressure. flat towed it home, washed it off and started ripping the motor out.



Decided to get a stock crate 5.3 straight from GM,



Back up and running, put the rough country 3" blocks in since it didnt have the factory 2" when i bought it. Still could not get the leveling keys in (crusted in place). Got my new toyo tires mounted and balanced on the methods.

I



Went out on another late night desert runs...



Made it around the whole planned loop of box canyon, probably a 2 hour trip through some desert and some rocky stuff. Got on the exit road and got a little over confident. Then disaster struck, thankfully everyone riding with me was ok. I underestimated a turn coming in way too hot. panic braked locking up the front tires, at full steering lock did nothing but kept me sliding foward, gassed it at the last second to keep us from wrapping it around a power line pull but still clipped a tree









The axle housing had the tube pulled out on the passenger side, causing the truck to dog walk, so that was one of the first things on the agenda to get fixed. A buddy had a housing that he swapped all the gears out of when he blew up his diff. so we got my gears into that housing, swapped my brakes over and threw it in.



Everyone signed the rear door, like a hs yearbook



Found a bed on Facebook market place for $500 that was the same color.

I

Found some doors at a junkyard the same color off a GMC, took it to a bodyshop to get them hung because the mounts were slightly tweaked



I

Finally got the rusted keys out and the leveling ones in and it sits better.



Mazzulla Rear bumper

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After 2 smoked 4L60's it was time for a 80 swap

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Little jump

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Then smoked another 10 bolt so swapped in a sf 14 bolt out of a late 90's "heavy halfton"

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Glamis with fresh rubber and a splash of purple

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Picked up a camper shell for future Prelandering

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KDS Fab knocked out this hidden hitch for behind the plate of the MZ bumper



Deaver F87 and Cwf shackles and hangers install



Ripped one of the fender flares off so pulled there rest off before the soon to come glass



Pulled the bedsides, mounted front fenders and cut the frame horns so KDS could get me hooked up with a bumper



Up next was Install of the JD Fab long travel kit with Carbon shocks done by KDS Fab



Thats where it sits now, theres a lot more to come in the near future! Like what could these 3.0x16 Carbon coilovers be for?

 
Well... things have happened since the last time posting here,

First off had quite a night run ending with me breaking on a flat graded dirt road, the last mile to pavement. I think the bolts came loose on the cv adaptor so that swung around and got a little roughed up

IMG_1161 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

So because of that its only right to take it to Kds and tear it all apart

IMG_1434 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

Last time its on all 4 for a while and leafsprings

IMG_1449 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

IMG_1458 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

IMG_1520 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

Decided to do a wishbone 3 link, keeping factory frame rails as well as gas tank to keep it emissions legal and costs down, later a leafspring style bedcage will come, we had everything moc'd up with very little pinion plunge and angle change. everything as of now is currently torn back apart getting fully welded out and beefed up.

IMG_0013 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

IMG_0014 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

IMG_0019 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

IMG_0011 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

IMG_0007 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

IMG_0006 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

IMG_0100 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

IMG_0016 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

IMG_0084 by Noah Peruch, on Flickr

More to come soon!
 
Hell yeah dude. You have a lot going on there.

I love the backstory of all of these trucks. Even the early version of your truck 'looks' simple at first but there is so much work to keep these things going and progressing.
 
I was wondering the same thing. I am leaning towards a 3 link with panhard bar but if this has held up okay I may consider that option too.

Sean
 
Be careful using a triangulated upper third link AND a panhard bar. Being triangulated it won't want to have any lateral motion. The panhard bar has lateral motion inherent in the way it arcs. I think using both of them will cause binding
 
Be careful using a triangulated upper third link AND a panhard bar. Being triangulated it won't want to have any lateral motion. The panhard bar has lateral motion inherent in the way it arcs. I think using both of them will cause binding
I’m wanting just a third, non triangulated, link and a panhard, but still curious how his set up faired
 
I’m wanting just a third, non triangulated, link and a panhard, but still curious how his set up faired
Biggest issue you’ll see is the third link is mounted off of center from the third member, so it’s a tall mount with a lot of torque on the axle tube, causing it to crack or twist the tube in the pumpkin
 
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