Manual vs Boosted brakes

Chimi

Chimi

Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2023
Messages
25
Location
HI
What is everyone’s thoughts on manual brakes?

Seems like a lot of varied perspectives searching around.

Anyone able to get them to work and be happy with them with bigger tires and weight
Dirt/street?
 
I'm running a gm 2500hd hydroboost on my 68 ford. Can't beat hydroboost especially with cam swapped motors since it doesn't rely on vacuum.

Also I've seen people run power brakes on the firewall then making an extended push rod between master cylinder and the booster and can run bends or whatever to clear brakes etc. Then support rod ends like you run on steering shafts to support it all and keep bends from flopping.
 
Only appeal to manual brakes is they work just as good if the motor is off or you stall it on a steep hill, I have manual on my old CJ7...its carbureted and its nice that the brakes are consistently ok okay'sh whether the motor is running or not. 🤡
 
I have stock manual brakes on my ranger and I love them. Granted I’m on 33’s in a truck that weighs 3800lbs but I can lock them up. I personally prefer the feel of manual brakes over boosted, they seem to feel less spongy to me.
 
UCD BAJA said:
Only appeal to manual brakes is they work just as good if the motor is off or you stall it on a steep hill, I have manual on my old CJ7...its carbureted and its nice that the brakes are consistently ok okay'sh whether the motor is running or not. 🤡
Click to expand...

oh really ?
53876026296_160367a9f1_b.jpg
 
Bosch IBooster is another option. More people are starting to use them in off road.
 
Have had manual brake on my truck for over 10 years. Drove it on the street for about 5 years before it became race truck/ desert truck. Do they cost money to make them right. YES! Get the longest pedal they make, then make it longer. I believe mine is like 20 inches total. Good masters make all the difference as well. I have found Tilton to be the best . 14 inch rotors and 6 pistons is a plus. Small hubs and big tires will cause deflection and cause you to hate them. We went from 37 to 39 and started to have deflectionissues with a 2.25 snout.(Been there done that) Residual valves are a must and need to be sized appropriately. At the end of the day it is more money but when space matters it is beneficial. Also built motors have less vacume and manual brakes or hydro boost is a must. I stay away from hydroboost cuz I like my steering to have all the pressure it needs. Just my 2 cents from building many trucks with manual brakes.
 
85Yota said:
I'm running a gm 2500hd hydroboost on my 68 ford. Can't beat hydroboost especially with cam swapped motors since it doesn't rely on vacuum.

Also I've seen people run power brakes on the firewall then making an extended push rod between master cylinder and the booster and can run bends or whatever to clear brakes etc. Then support rod ends like you run on steering shafts to support it all and keep bends from flopping.
Click to expand...
Do you have a parts list or part numbers or anything that would help me go this hydroboost route? I have been thinking / wanting to do hydroboost on my truck.

Gregg
 
Mine is actually stock one from a 2002 Cadillac escalade I had from when I parted those things out 10 years ago. Then I got a new master cylinder and izzy fab remote reservoir adapter. I'm running some high pressure hoses my hydraulic shop made from upgrade stock P pump with remote resi can.
 
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