Fenix Motorsports Portfolio

[Fenix Motorsports]

Well since my personal builds & threads have fallen to the wayside since I started running this business full time about a month ago, here's my short and sweet portfolio of work I've done over the last couple months.

2017 Tacoma SR5 2wd
DTF +6 LT Kit
King 2.5x10 Dual Rate Coil-over
King 2.5x10 3 tube Bypass
King 2.5x2 Bumps
Fiberwerx +6 Fenders and Bedsides with FM built braces
FM Built front bumper - this thing almost kicked my ass for some reason
FM Built Engine Cage

The Front End pulls about 17.5in of travel, although it could get more with an anti-dive delete since there's about an inch of shaft inside the shock at full droop where the upper arm hits the stock shock tower.




2019 Polaris XP1000
Originally a short course car, swapped the setup to desert rec. use
Fox 3.0 IBP rear and 2.5 IBP Front
Rerouted Air intake inside cabin
New seats with custom mounts as the new owner is pretty tall
HRP Chassis (Modified slightly by FM)
HRP rear sway bar
Super ATV LT Kit
33in Tensor DSR on Fuel Beadlocks

I wanted to do the setup on the suspension after it was swapped to the foxes but the owner works for shock therapy so excuse the horrendous spring setup, and the fact that they are blown out.





Product Development & other misc. stuff

I started designing and making some shop/tool organizers to try and start to recoup the costs of buying the CNC plasma table and CNC brake

Air tool organizer(s)


Angle Grinder Holder


MX Center Stand


Badlands Jack Mount - still prototyping, didn't like that most of the ones on the market require some type of threaded point (thumbscrew or bolt) to secure the jack, but I struggled a bit to find something that should work as an alternative.


I'm pretty much always coming up with new stuff and have a massive backlog of stuff to design, prototype, and get on my website.

On top of all this I'm a Color Fittings Dealer and also get wholesale pricing for about 120 other companies through Comp Specialties, including Fox, Eibach, Bilstein, Baja Designs, Vision X, Warn, just to name a few.


Anyway, to end this first post (of many I'm sure), here's to hoping I can keep up the momentum with the business in order to keep building badass stuff for badass people.

 

[oddball23]

Where are u located? What's your background? Looks solid

 

[Fenix Motorsports]

Where are u located? What's your background? Looks solid

I'm in Glendale AZ, as far as my background, I've been welding and fabricating since I was 14 (21 now), pretty much solely in the motorsports space, I've done chassis work, cage work, but my personal favorite is suspension. Like a lot of people in this industry, I've spent a lot of time teaching myself the ins and outs of suspension and chassis design/fab amongst the other skills I have (CAD, wiring, engine building, etc.). I try to keep as high of a standard as I can with my current skill level since the last thing I want is to be known for cut rate work/parts/etc.

 

[Fenix Motorsports]

Figured I'd do a quick photo dump of recent projects

1. Badlands Jack Mount


2. Custom Rock Sliders for a 3G Tacoma and a matching pair for an FJ Cruiser, did a CMR on the tacoma as well but didn't grab any pics




3. Started Designing a LT Kit for the Polaris XP1k/Turbo
- Maintain Stock Geometry
- +4in Track Width Increase
- +2in front wheelbase
- uses all stock pivot hardware and balljoints
- Still need to design the trailing arms and radius rods
- Eventually I do want to design a kit that switches over to full uniballs/heim joints with an upgraded trailing arm pivot box out back for a larger spherical bearing


4. Drop Shackles for the '73-'87 C10 and the '99-'18 trucks
- 1-2in drop for the C10
- 1-3in drop for the GMT Platform



5. Fabricated front Crossmembers for the GMT800 Platform
- All .188 Steel, internally gusseted with .120 overlay at pivots
- Rear X Member needs to be redesigned for a couple reasons, mainly the fact that I didn't account for the diff mount.

 

[DTF_TACOMA]

Nice LT kit

If you add some castor you could get a little more travel too.

 

[Fenix Motorsports]

Nice LT kit

If you add some castor you could get a little more travel too.

I know there is more travel left in that kit but I didn't mess around much with trying to get the absolute max travel out of that truck for a couple of reasons.

A) It is the owners daily and he needed the truck back in a somewhat timely manner so I didn't have the time to really fiddle with the truck to get everything exactly perfect, I ended up spending a lot of time waiting on parts to even put the kit on the truck and cycle it with the shocks on.

B) He wanted to keep the rear leaf sprung at the time and with how much travel your kit pulls in that config, the front still would have pulled more travel than the rear by an inch or two so it was also trying to optimize his setup. That being said, he was toying with the idea of doing a full cab/engine cage, relocating the bump stops and linking the rear end after I told him that (the snowball effect is real), so maybe the front end will get reworked to get the max travel out of it, because I did notice that about 1-2in of shaft on the shocks were left unused when I was putting everything together.

Overall that LT kit went together pretty well, except the bushing/sleeves had to be changed for the stock alignment hardware (I assume you usually delete it and just do the alignment with the upper arm) but otherwise, good job on that kit, the little test driving I did with it, the truck drove nicely.

 

[Fenix Motorsports]

Pretty much dove head first into this one, I've never been really interested in the buggy/sandcar side of things, but a client approached me about doing some updates and changes to his rail (2001 Tatum Sand Demon). The biggest thing was redesigning the trailing arms to accept a 934 mid-board CV hub from gear one that he pulled off another car of his. This is the first draft, but after some back and forth on the budget allocation and overall condition of the car, I'm adding provisions for a limit strap and bypass shock to open the door for future upgrades.

 

[blue oval]

What's the reason for the 934 upgrade? More travel or stronger parts?

 

[Fenix Motorsports]

What's the reason for the 934 upgrade? More travel or stronger parts?

Its a combo of both of those, this car actually belongs to my clients nephew, but there's 4 cars in this family and the other three use 934 CVs, bypasses, etc, bigger stronger components in general. So they want to do some updates to this car to help it keep up with the others without having to worry about it breaking constantly, which is a valid concern with how many issues I've come across with this car so far (shock shaft pulling out of the body, cracked and bent shock mounts, bent hardware, steering rack ripping mounts off the chassis, pass. side trailing cracked all the way through the hub carrier mounting plate.) These are just the problems I've found and I'm not even stripping the car down for a full prep job.

 

[Fenix Motorsports]

Here's the final draft on the CAD model for these arms, added bypass mounts, limit strap tabs (will be in double sheer but not 100% sure on placement currently due to chassis limitations) and modified the interior rib for the arm to get closer to the shock mounts, I also added more gussets on the hub carrier plate, now the fight is going to be nesting all these parts into the 3x6 sheet of chromoly I have.

 

[Fenix Motorsports]

I've been cranking out quite a few jobs the last few weeks, between rebuilding parts of the sand demon, caging RadoNoah's Silverado, and also sneaking in a DRT cab mount relocation between the two.

Brought me the truck pretty much fully stripped which saved a lot of time, although I had plenty of issues trying to get the cage in the truck, the cage just didn't fit as well as I would've liked, which I guess is typical for a prefab cage, but the frame of the truck is bent which added to the complications, however I didn't realize that until the tail end of the install, but most importantly, the cage is in and its solid should it need to be used.
Tie ins are all hand cut and brazed in with silicon bronze filler, for my first time using it I'm happy with the end results


The Sand Demon had a bunch of cracks in the frame that needed to be repaired, primarily the front shock towers and the steering rack were ripping off the frame. The parts I'm designing for this thing are definitely more along the side of being overkill, but for a play car that isn't going to be completely torn down every few hundred miles, I'm prioritizing reliability and toughness over being on the cutting edge of performance.

I made a brace for the rear portion of the shock tower to prevent the mounts from ripping off the frame again, its way overkill being made of .120 wall tube, but its not going to have any future issues

Finished welding out the main structure of the first of the two rear arms, it came out pretty good, mocked it up on the car to make sure it was all straight, now I just need to finish welding the overlays, gussets and shock mounts, then move on to the second arm. Also, I made a mistake in a previous post, these are still going to be 930 CVs, just moving to a mid-board gear one hub instead of the previous inboard CV


Had to cut off the old rack and mounts since the owner wants to put on a newer gear-one rack, and newer uprights on the car, I scanned it and put it into Fusion only to find out whoever put the original uprights on, made them too short on the vertical spacing so the car had no Instant Center in the front end and had horrendous bump steer, upwards of 1.5 inches. The new setup has less than .5in through its metal to metal travel (~16in). I made new tie rods for the rack and new uprights, replaced the heim joints on the upright side of the control arms and now just need to prep the hardware properly, and weld in the rack mount and gussets

The rack mount is all .25 with ,120 overlay, the rear frame tie in plates are .25 but also double pass welded on both sides just for added insurance since I didnt cut it as one piece and bend it, which would've been better, but its overkill as it is.

Old (.75in diameter .120 wall) vs New (1.25 in diameter .120 wall) tie rods

First pass of two on the new tie rods