1992 ford explorer

[SoloSct]

Bought the truck maybe 2 weeks ago from bakerhotrodworks pretty clean explorer
Build thread of my 1992 ford explorer 2wd.
Plans are for a unequal set of beams coilovers, deavers etc

So far I have on order is a threat motorsports unequal set of beams
Going with stock steering for the time being.
Also bought a set of d44 knuckles so I think all I need is brake calipers and brake lines rotors and the hub. If I need more someone chime in haha
Trying to decide between giant motorsports engine cage or solo motorsports engine cage for the explorers. Any input would be appreciated

Most likely a 12-14 2.5 c/o on market place ( shoot me a message if you have a set)

For the rear I’m going a cook craft rear shock mount and deaver g50e and raptor shocks ( just bought a set)

So much for a budget build to get me back in the desert
Parts needed
Engine cage
Coil overs
Deavers
Rear shock mount
Steering set up

If anyone has any leads on these that would be greatly appreciated

And if there’s anyone willing to take on some garage fab work hit me up so I don’t put the truck and build on the back burner

 

[SoloSct]

Question for the smart people of the internet

Would these parts work together I know very little with Dana 44 stuff all I know is I have 6 bolt knuckles and honestly just want a complete kit so there isn’t second guessing

 

[RMC]

Question for the smart people of the internet
View attachment 44457
Would these parts work together I know very little with Dana 44 stuff all I know is I have 6 bolt knuckles and honestly just want a complete kit so there isn’t second guessing

Explorers are d35 TTB, d44 is a larger war spread on the knuckles to the beam.

 

[RMC]

D35ttb is narrower ear spread on the steering knuckle than d44 TTB. The parts are not compatible however I’ve made d35 camber adjustable uniball knuckles in the past that would work but that’s not going to be an on the cheap thing. My advise swap to d44 beam ends on threat’s 2wd d44 beams. Then everything posted is compatible from my quick overview. You might have to modify the pivots but that’s easier than making d35/44 adapter steering knuckle plus the ear spread and ball joint size is much larger on d44. Stronger

 

[RMC]

You’ll also need a Timkin set 37 and a set 45 to run this hubs on d44 snouts.

 

[the bodj]

I have d35 ttb from an explorer on my gmc Sonoma. I replaced the entire knuckle with a set from a friend’s 1981 Bronco, so d44. I used a tapered reamer (forgetting what taper it is at the moment) on the explorer beam ends to accept the Bronco ball joints. This is all TTB though. Idk if 2nd is different.

 

[Hansoloo]

Not sure about threat motorsports but majority of Companies out there with beam kits like that for 2wd will still use a 4x4 d44 knuckle so you shouldn't need to ream the beam ends. putting d35 hubs on fabricated beams wouldn't be worth it

 

[RMC]

I got stuck with a guy once hard pressed to keep his d35 beams so I made him a set of uniball camber adjustable knuckles. I Dont think it’s really relevant but there are solutions for the baby ball joints of the d35 beams. If I had to do it over I’d chop the beam ends off and add d44 beam ends and adapt 4wd components as needed. These knuckles I always hated because they were in single shear so I sent them off with double shear templates for the customers kid to cut out and add to his beams. Still not a fan of d35 nor am I a fan of the 2wd f150 factory spindles. They have a snout ( spindle shaft) tip that’s 3/4” diameter at best and are looking to snap off if you jump it. Hope this gives you you some ideas. Use all thread and multiple nuts to align before welding cups.

 

[SoloSct]

Thanks yall, and yea so the beans that are being made are going to be for d44 ends
I’m going to be going with stock knuckles for the time being I might add a camburg 2.0 hub kit if it works but that’s down the line

I honestly just want simplicity and be able to replace parts at any auto parts store so luckly I think everything I have pictured is everything I’ll need other then bearings and brakes calipers

 

[SoloSct]

You’ll also need a Timkin set 37 and a set 45 to run this hubs on d44 snouts.

So these bearings should work on a Dana 44 parts or was it for the 35

 

[LoganB]

Everything you have in your cart will work.

You’re doing oem style d44 knuckles, so anything for a 1980-92 6 bolt spindle d44 will work. Lots of awesome info has been added in this thread, but to answer your original question, you have the right stuff.

 

[RMC]

So these bearings should work on a Dana 44 parts or was it for the 35

D44.

 

[RMC]

Thanks yall, and yea so the beans that are being made are going to be for d44 ends
I’m going to be going with stock knuckles for the time being I might add a camburg 2.0 hub kit if it works but that’s down the line

I honestly just want simplicity and be able to replace parts at any auto parts store so luckly I think everything I have pictured is everything I’ll need other then bearings and brakes calipers

D44 ball joints are pretty hard to kill. I’ve ran them with 33,37,and 39” tires they can change with a lot just make sure you get raybestos or moog ( blue rubber boot) ball joints from Napa. I have part numbers if needed they last longer than the cheapo’s. But the cheapos hang surprisingly well also. Meaning duralast.