Any tricks for the manual swap? I just picked up a 94 with a blown up auto trans looking into M50D swap.
I learned a few things doing it and now that I have everything working as it should, I’ll share my experience/headache. This is gonna be as detailed as I can make it.
Trans-
Swap is straight forward, you’ll need all things associated with a manual trans obviously. Including bell housing bolts, the autos are too short.
The “spacer plate” between the bell housing is not the same for a manual. It indexes the starter differently. You can source one which is hard, modify yours, or I just threw my whole plate in the trash. No issues what so ever. Youll need a manual starter as well ( I tried auto, no luck) you’ll need to either modify your trans tunnel plate or find a manual one. I just cut a hole in mine. You can use your auto driveshafts.
Clutch Neutral Safety Switch. You can either bypass that, or hook it up. It’s stupid easy to hook up so might as well do it. All rangers/explorers come with the neutral safety clutch harness. It’s up in the right side by the driver kick panel/firewall. Grab a clutch switch and it will plug right in like it’s oem.
Wiring-
2 options
“Oem” or quick and dirty get it driving, I’ll give you both!
Oem way
You’re gonna use your auto trans harness and make some connections to the manual plugs. On the manual trans you’re gonna have two plugs. One is the neutral switch on the passenger side, and reverse lights in the driver side. You’re going to connect your purple/yellow and purple/black to the driver side plug to have working reverse lights, the pink and red/blue get connected to the nss on the passenger side. If you’re running the AUTO t case you will need to ground the red/white wire to allow you to engage 4low. Otherwise you won’t use that wire.
Quick and dirty way- hook pink and red/blue together, do not hook up clutch rod/switch at pedal. No nss or reverse lights but you can run it if you want.
Pedal Assembly-
You will need the bracket/assemblywith the brake and clutch pedal. Make sure you get an explorer pedal assembly. I used a free rain gutter ranger one, and the clutch is too close to the brake pedal. You do not need to pull the dash to install the assembly like some say. I pulled the e brake mechanism and everything out of the way on the kick panel. Then fight/cuss that thing into a spot that lets you push the rod/pedals into the gas pedal bracket. It’s gonna be a bitch, but fuck pulling a dash.
Ranger pedals too close. I still drive it though,
Now….
This is controversial topic among the explorer guys. Some say you’ll need a 1994 manual computer, or you will have 3,000rpm rev limiter. Some say you can’t, I used a manual computer. If you can get a 94 with non egr computer you can delete all the emissions bullshit too.
Once you’re done, go take it for a rip and see how it runs! In my case, the motor decided to spit a head gasket around this time, I wouldnt recommend that. It’s gonna feel like a rocket ship compared to an a4ld tho!
Hopefully this helps! All this info has been a collaboration of peoples info and knowledge on the swap. Mine runs and rips, yours should too!
