1985 k10 prerunner ideas?

[6.2slowboi]

So back to your budget. I do not see front AND rear leafs AND shocks being done for under $2500 with using and shopping for all used springs. 62" deavers used is $7-800, 2.5 smooth bodies usually $500. So figure $12-1300 per end with all used parts, NOT counting brake lines, limit straps, new u-bolts, hardware etc.

Also where are you located and what desert are you wanting to use this thing in? Barstow leaf front will be limited unless you do custom pack and spend the money to replace broken leafs when you beat on it. If wanting a decent trail runner that is smoother than stock than this is achievable.

im on Facebook and i found a set of Carbon 2.5 smooth body shocks.... ive never heard of the company are they good?

 

[6.2slowboi]

If you can find deavers go for it. The main thing to consider with any leafs is if they aren't correct spring rate they won't work that great. No different than I stalking coilovers with too stiff or soft of springs, but leafs are a bit harder and more expensive to change spring rate than simple coilovers.

If you get deavers and mount them on truck loaded as you are gonna use them and measure axle to bump. Than they can usually add or subtract spring to increase or decrease ride height as you need.

couldnt i take a leaf or two out to "tune" the spring? (is tune even the right word for that?)

 

[85Yota]

Removing leafs will soften the spring rate. It will change the spring rate curve and make it not perfectly progressive. Carbon shocks is a newer company and they make good stuff, much better than FOA from my reading. Never tore carbon shocks apart them to see quality in person though.

 

[6.2slowboi]

Removing leafs will soften the spring rate. It will change the spring rate curve and make it not perfectly progressive. Carbon shocks is a newer company and they make good stuff, much better than FOA from my reading. Never tore carbon shocks apart them to see quality in person though.

yeah i dont wanna waste my money if they arnt good! id be interested to see how they are inside, i.e. how easy they are to rebuild.

 

[6.2slowboi]

a bit of brutal honesty is what im needing tho, would it be worth it just to leave the truck as a town truck/dd and pick up a ranger or unfinished project and just finish it?

 

[85Yota]

They are more than enough for a leaf spring non race truck. Even FOA shocks that aren't that great will work fine. You just need to watch YouTube videos on how to shock rebuilds. Than if they start to leak tear down and clean and new seals.

 

[mobil1syn]

step 1
- ditch the push pull steering, get crossover in there. no matter how you proceed with suspension you will need to address this.
- get a 2.0 or 2.5 shocks in there now even if you have to make a simple little shock hoop front and rear
- fox, king, radflo, ads stay away from the off brands too much hassle for the savings
- fox shims are cheap, king shims are EXPENSIVE, so consider these items when selecting your shock
- learn to rebuild/revalve shocks
- put .008 on rebound, start with .012 on compression and work on making it ride well
- get creative and make mistakes and try things out
- build bumpers and sliders
- drive the wheels off the thing

step 2
- decide what is the purpose of the truck and select suspension accordingly
- 2wd, 4wd
- rocks, dirt, dunes, camping, mega hucking

2wd
- equal length beams, super simple tons of travel
- spring under in the rear

4wd - mainly rock crawling
- do your homework, build your own 3-link front setup
- spring over in the rear

4wd - general trail running, dunes, smashing hoops, mega hucks
- TTB, i suspect a TTB crossmember could easily replace the crossmember under your motor
- cookie cutter TTB setup and peel out
- spring under in the rear

 

[85Yota]

step 1
- ditch the push pull steering, get crossover in there. no matter how you proceed with suspension you will need to address this.
- get a 2.0 or 2.5 shocks in there now even if you have to make a simple little shock hoop front and rear
- fox, king, radflo, ads stay away from the off brands too much hassle for the savings
- fox shims are cheap, king shims are EXPENSIVE, so consider these items when selecting your shock
- learn to rebuild/revalve shocks
- put .008 on rebound, start with .012 on compression and work on making it ride well
- get creative and make mistakes and try things out
- build bumpers and sliders
- drive the wheels off the thing

4wd - general trail running, dunes, smashing hoops, mega hucks
- TTB, i suspect a TTB crossmember could easily replace the crossmember under your motor
- cookie cutter TTB setup and peel out
- spring under in the rear

TTB is the best setup for go fast 4wd. Converting your K10 to TTB would require a ford transfer case. That and new crossmember for front TTB. You could do that and get ocho fab Silverado TTB crossmember and modify to fit your K10 but than budget isn't really a consideration

 

[85Yota]

100% agree converting to a 2wd steering box and crossover steering is 100% necessary for go fast solid axle K10 truck.

 

[mobil1syn]

TTB is the best setup for go fast 4wd. Converting your K10 to TTB would require a ford transfer case. That and new crossmember for front TTB. You could do that and get ocho fab Silverado TTB crossmember and modify to fit your K10 but than budget isn't really a consideration

should be able to bolt a gm241c (driver drop) to the back of his 700r4.

@6.2slowboi how wide are your frame rails under the motor mounts?

 

[85Yota]

Yeah any ifs tcase will bolt on from most GM trucks. Again adding to the cost of the budget build. He's talking keeping leaf springs for budget TTB is a totally different ball game.

 

[mobil1syn]

Yeah any ifs tcase will bolt on from most GM trucks. Again adding to the cost of the budget build. He's talking keeping leaf springs for budget TTB is a totally different ball game.

step 1 would be a multiyear step and he will have to spend lots of time in the junkyard and hunting for deals. most of us here started just like this dude and had to scrounge to get parts.

 

[6.2slowboi]

should be able to bolt a gm241c (driver drop) to the back of his 700r4.

@6.2slowboi how wide are your frame rails under the motor mounts?

that is a wonderful question, id have to measure them to make sure, i think its around 2feet ish? i havent been under that pert in a little while, could i measure the front rail? the frame is straight so i figure it would be about the same front and rear.

Yeah any ifs tcase will bolt on from most GM trucks. Again adding to the cost of the budget build. He's talking keeping leaf springs for budget TTB is a totally different ball game.

I was about to say, i mean at that point wouldnt it be easier to just do grab a front clip from a 2000s 4x4 with the IFS?

on that note i do have news! i found some old 2018 ford f550 bump stops he was going to throw away so ima see if i can make those work. baby steps right?
also for the rear shackle stuff, i was looking at those kits and from ORD its like 270 with shipping i think, so my crackhead idea was to just cut the bottom side of the shackle flip it on its head and brace it at the top. good idea?

step 1 would be a multiyear step and he will have to spend lots of time in the junkyard and hunting for deals. most of us here started just like this dude and had to scrounge to get parts.

i feel like a little kid at easter looking for the egg with the "special prize" in it XD

 

[85Yota]

I wouldn't personally do a shackle flip on front. I would keep the front of spring fixed with bushing on frame and have shackle in rear so it swings the way it should when compressed. Also do crossover steering. 2wd C10 steering box will bolt in and than do new drag link and tie rod or even better get a drill and tapped pass knuckle to do a steering arm off that so drag link and tie rod are separate

 

[6.2slowboi]

step 1
- ditch the push pull steering, get crossover in there. no matter how you proceed with suspension you will need to address this.
- get a 2.0 or 2.5 shocks in there now even if you have to make a simple little shock hoop front and rear
- fox, king, radflo, ads stay away from the off brands too much hassle for the savings
- fox shims are cheap, king shims are EXPENSIVE, so consider these items when selecting your shock
- learn to rebuild/revalve shocks
- put .008 on rebound, start with .012 on compression and work on making it ride well
- get creative and make mistakes and try things out
- build bumpers and sliders
- drive the wheels off the thing

step 2
- decide what is the purpose of the truck and select suspension accordingly
- 2wd, 4wd
- rocks, dirt, dunes, camping, mega hucking

2wd
- equal length beams, super simple tons of travel
- spring under in the rear

4wd - mainly rock crawling
- do your homework, build your own 3-link front setup
- spring over in the rear

4wd - general trail running, dunes, smashing hoops, mega hucks
- TTB, i suspect a TTB crossmember could easily replace the crossmember under your motor
- cookie cutter TTB setup and peel out
- spring under in the rear

Love in input and experience, hate the price XD ive found some res shocks "full throttle" for 200$ down the street, i think ill pick those up just to build the hoops and if they get all busted itll be time for new and better. the TTB set ups have been in the back of my mind (my buddies truck was running that before he sold it). Id prefer to keep it 4&4 cuz better to have it and not need it then to get stuck all the time...

 

[6.2slowboi]

I wouldn't personally do a shackle flip on front. I would keep the front of spring fixed with bushing on frame and have shackle in rear so it swings the way it should when compressed. Also do crossover steering. 2wd C10 steering box will bolt in and than do new drag link and tie rod or even better get a drill and tapped pass knuckle to do a steering arm off that so drag link and tie rod are separate

oh yeah schackle flip only in the back, the front will get a longer shackle hangers (i think thats what there called) so i can run a 52" spring (hopefully). ORD makes the cross over steering kit ill be getting that once i finish the rear brain storming.

 

[mobil1syn]

you want a tension shackle in the rear. dont waste your money on those shocks

f250 front shock mounts are easily sourced and can be bolted on your frame

E5TZ-18183-A

FORD STYLE SHOCK BRACKET W/ HARDWARE

www.partsmike.com

52" springs for the front

52" Front Spring Swap

52" Front Spring Swap I'm not a certified mechanic, engineer, safety or materials expert. All advice in this write-up should be taken with that in mind. If you know of a better, easier or safer way to do something, by all means do it! Even...

ck5.com

DIY 4x :: Warning

 

[6.2slowboi]

you want a tension shackle in the rear. dont waste your money on those shocks

f250 front shock mounts are easily sourced and can be bolted on your frame

E5TZ-18183-A

FORD STYLE SHOCK BRACKET W/ HARDWARE

www.partsmike.com

52" springs for the front

52" Front Spring Swap

52" Front Spring Swap I'm not a certified mechanic, engineer, safety or materials expert. All advice in this write-up should be taken with that in mind. If you know of a better, easier or safer way to do something, by all means do it! Even...

ck5.com

DIY 4x :: Warning

what would be the benefit or main difference between a tension shackle compared to doing the shackle flip?

 

[85Yota]

Tension shackle, the shackle above the pivot allows a much taller free arch for lower ride height. Bigger arch helps a lot with both compression AND rebound since springs when compressed want to return back to free arch. Shackle flip is never really used on go fast rigs. Even rangers that run shackles that way do a shackle flip for deavers to make it a tension shackle.

 

[6.2slowboi]

good news yall, later today im off to get some 52" springs, hopefully i can make it work with the tools i have! any advice on how to get rivets out?