I did mine slightly different than yours I think. I kept it flat on the back side edge of the beam and then bent it inwards on the last couple inches. Yours looks straight the whole way and somewhat diagonal to the back side edge
Looks awesome. The Right hand beam pivot looks like it would want to bend up/back to the motor. Are you worried about this and gonna ad a tube to keep it from moving?
Looks awesome. The Right hand beam pivot looks like it would want to bend up/back to the motor. Are you worried about this and gonna ad a tube to keep it from moving?
There isn’t any room to do any sort of bracing on the left side of the crossmember with the 3rd and driveshaft installed. That right hand beam pivot is fully boxed and triangulated though. Still I am doing pretty much exactly that on the right side which will eliminate any rearward flex. The crossmember itself is super stout, so even only having bracing on one side will reinforce the whole thing. Already have the mounts figured out but just haven’t built an arm. The rear mount is the old upper control arm mount from the 4 link
Well I successfully built from scratch the worst type of ttb steering I’m beat and my brain is fried. I was hoping stock bronco steering would work but all the bends were in the wrong places so I decided to build my own. Obviously ambulance style steering isn’t ideal I’ll end up changing this eventually but it was cool learning how it worked.
The drag link arm that goes from the pitman arm to the knuckle was easy and can’t really be adjusted geometry wise, but it’s almost parallel to the beam after doing a drop pitman arm and putting it on top of the knuckle. The tie rod on the right side was very tricky. The pivot has to be just in the right place or else bump and droop are a disaster. I tried a few different lengths and this spot was the one that mimicked the other side the closest. Yes, there’s bumpsteer and I’ll figure out how much tomorrow when I put the hubs and wheels on. But at bump - both sides are toed-out slightly. At droop the left side is toed-in and the right side is nuetral. I figured out this was best case scenario. If I made the tie rod longer then I found that at droop one side would toe-out and the other would toe-in which would be super scary as it would pull the whole truck in that direction.
Figured I’d drop some knowledge, but since this is rhd and the pitman arm is on the other side this probably won’t help anyone But stoked that I figured something out. Its cycles good and doesn’t bind at all. The tie rod bend is angled to almost 30° which is sketchy but was needed to clear everything. If it’s too weak I’ll have to figure something else out, but its 1.5” 0.250 wall so I’m hoping it’ll hold up
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