Rear End Full Floater Hubs? Options and Opinions
- Thread starter Brett_408
- Start date
Kellyex1450
Well-known member
Man, I keep coming back to this thread—so much good info. Should be a sticky.
Just picked up a Dana 60 and want 5 on 5.5 while keeping the D60 spindle. Axle Pros suggested the Trail Gear unit-bearing pockets + Branik 5x5.5 unit-bearing hub setup. Sounds solid and I’ll probably do it, regardless ill be using them to put everything together
…but I’m still curious if there’s a legit way to make a solid axle 14-bolt hub work on the D60 spindle. I can’t find anything definitive saying it’s possible (or how), and Solid was closed when I called.
If anyone has a proven link/write-up for D60 spindle retained → 5x5.5, drop it here
Just picked up a Dana 60 and want 5 on 5.5 while keeping the D60 spindle. Axle Pros suggested the Trail Gear unit-bearing pockets + Branik 5x5.5 unit-bearing hub setup. Sounds solid and I’ll probably do it, regardless ill be using them to put everything together
…but I’m still curious if there’s a legit way to make a solid axle 14-bolt hub work on the D60 spindle. I can’t find anything definitive saying it’s possible (or how), and Solid was closed when I called.
If anyone has a proven link/write-up for D60 spindle retained → 5x5.5, drop it here
https://www.polyperformance.com/solid-axle-industries-d60-forged-wheel-hubs
I'm checking stock on these from Solid axle now
I'm checking stock on these from Solid axle now
The Branik 5x5.5 unit bearing looks like its standard with 1/2 studs I'd be curious to know if 5/8" is possible looks like it probably would be to tight with clearances. I called solid a few months back about the 14 bolt hub compatibility on a D60 spindle the dude that answered was not to sure and told me "he thinks it does but he'd have to check with the owner". I never pursued any further because of the issue brought up in here with getting wheels passed the axle flange bolts.
Whatever you find out please post in here.
One other issue I found out with the Solid D60 spindles is the OD is like 2.92" on the part the slides into the axle housing tube. This means for a typical 3.5" x .250 housing the spindle would be to loose in the end so solid suggested that the spindle be turned down and hosing sleeved with a .120 tube to get them to fit. I thought this was a little shifty. The other suggestion was using a housing with a 3/8" wall tube then turn spindle to fit. Like a ruff stuff or trail gear hosuing.
Kellyex1450
Well-known member
I spoke with a guy at Solid Axle today — he seemed to really know his stuff. He said the 14-bolt hub can work on Dodge/GM Dana 60s, but not on the Ford Dana 60. According to him, the only ways to go 5 on 5.5 are:
If anyone is considering the Solid Axle route, I’d definitely recommend calling them first to confirm fitment for your specific need.
Since the Dana 60 I picked up is a Ford, I’m leaning toward welding on unit bearing pockets instead. I’ve been told welding unit bearing pockets is easier than swapping spindles, and it seems like a few people here have suggested the same — but I don’t have firsthand experience with either method yet.
If anyone has knowledge on the unit pocket bearing weld on mounts , I'm curious and need to figure out how they affect the axle width when done. seems like I should be worried that if i cut off my current spindle ends and weld pocket unit bearing mounts on than the rear end would end up narrower than it was before? which I don't want. I'm looking to end up the same width as it is currently.
- Start with a 14-bolt, Dodge, or GM Dana 60
- Or use their kit and weld new spindles on
If anyone is considering the Solid Axle route, I’d definitely recommend calling them first to confirm fitment for your specific need.
Since the Dana 60 I picked up is a Ford, I’m leaning toward welding on unit bearing pockets instead. I’ve been told welding unit bearing pockets is easier than swapping spindles, and it seems like a few people here have suggested the same — but I don’t have firsthand experience with either method yet.
If anyone has knowledge on the unit pocket bearing weld on mounts , I'm curious and need to figure out how they affect the axle width when done. seems like I should be worried that if i cut off my current spindle ends and weld pocket unit bearing mounts on than the rear end would end up narrower than it was before? which I don't want. I'm looking to end up the same width as it is currently.
I've also done it on a GM 14 bolt, but I got another set of axle tubes with spindles off Ebay. Then I cut the tubes and welded them together to make it wider. Aluminum pucks at center and an aluminum bushing for the spindle end to make it all straight. Then you can get the GM/Dodge spindles, make it custom width (with new cut to length axles) then you get the width you want, wheel hubs you want and all's good. If you are really beating on it you can do a truss to make sure it's all straight.
https://offroadanonymous.com/produc...AFoctkJNWbdvqJTmMFZjof1qq81AFQnxoCDVAQAvD_BwE
https://offroadanonymous.com/produc...AFoctkJNWbdvqJTmMFZjof1qq81AFQnxoCDVAQAvD_BwE
counterpart7
Member
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- Feb 14, 2024
- Messages
- 29
Any pics or anything of this being done? Sounds like a great way to get a super strong FF rear end at whatever length you want.
I’ve looked into custom 14 bolts from Crane Axle but shipping is $$.
No pics but grind bevel on tubes did 3 passes and then slid in axles, measured gap between axle and hub and cut end of axle the length off so it worked good.
We also had local machine shop machine the hubs to 4.25" centerbore and then I machined end of the Yukon cut to length axles to 4.25", opened up centerbore on factory silverado rotors. Then machined 12pt bolts shoulder down to bolt the axles in.
C85 spring under 01 silverado so no truss and no problems with it in the couple years since its been done.
We also had local machine shop machine the hubs to 4.25" centerbore and then I machined end of the Yukon cut to length axles to 4.25", opened up centerbore on factory silverado rotors. Then machined 12pt bolts shoulder down to bolt the axles in.
C85 spring under 01 silverado so no truss and no problems with it in the couple years since its been done.
counterpart7
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- Feb 14, 2024
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- 29
What hubs did you do?
Is there a huge difference/benefit between the Solid Axle Industries and the Innovative Solutions hubs?
RMC
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2025
- Messages
- 131
RMC
Active member
- Joined
- Oct 27, 2025
- Messages
- 131
Another possibility for this set up is get Sterling snouts chopped of an f259-f350, wider spread than d60 and are stronger. Chop off turn down in a lathe and weld up the factory stud holes. With the use of a mill you can put whatever pattern you want in the hubs. I’ve done 6 on 5.5 from d44hd and it can be done from sterling hubs as well. Good for thought…
I hit up solid axle about making 6on5.5 they said you have to do 200 pairs to meet minimum mfg from import vendor so that tells you something. One off is not a solid axle product. Regardless of cheap wheels at the swap meet.
I hit up solid axle about making 6on5.5 they said you have to do 200 pairs to meet minimum mfg from import vendor so that tells you something. One off is not a solid axle product. Regardless of cheap wheels at the swap meet.
Doubleggregg
Active member
when do you guys think there is a need to step up to 40 spline or larger axles? what should be on the table for a determinign factor?
84Prerunner
Well-known member
Anything with 40s should have 40spline or larger axles.
Not all 35 spline axles are created equal either. With a healthy v8 even on 37s it wouldn’t be too hard to break a 35 spline. Driving style plays a major role.
