Norcal guys checking in

whiteranger50

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Jun 2, 2024
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Hey all, checkin in from norcal in the placer county area. Got a project 96 ranger Wide d35 TTB im building. Ill do a thread so people with more knowledge can help push me in the right direction.

So glad there is an active forum again. Its awesome to see alot of people i recognize from past threads

Camburg beams d35 +4.5
home extended shafts
Bratton built crossmember and radius arms
4.56 lunch box up front
Custom spindle nuts
Carbon 2.5x14 coilovers


Rear junk yard leafs
No shocks yet
Eventually cantilever with links. All under the bed
Expedition 8.8 4.56 detroit trutrac custom disc brake and cross drilled axle flanges.

98+front header panel hood and grill swap
Custom wiringg
Random lighting
Fiberglass front fenders
Raptor rear customized will go on later

Plus the stack of parts i have and oldschool camburg mid trabel TTB setuo for sale
 

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Anyone whi has built long travel TTB with extended d35 beams please chime in so i can pick your brains
 
Cut beam ends off, cut out four plates the correct width to fill the gap (I did 4.5"). Put bend in two of the plates to add any caster you may want (also, you may cut the plates at an angle to fix camber if you're adding lift. I did not for my specific scenario)

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Tack plates in place

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Weld in place, ream the ears to accept bronco d44 knuckles/ball joints

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Plate over all of it. Top and bottom overlay plates to incorporate the radius arm mount

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Cut out any material that's in your way to get more bump travel. Plate over it to make strong again.

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Congratulations. You now have sick whoop scissors!

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Thats badass. My radius arms contact my frame at full bump. I already have the beams and arms and its all installed. I keep hitting binding issues with the inner shafts. Im around 13.5in of travel from full bump to. Full droop just before inner yoke binding when both tires droop out.
 
Thats badass. My radius arms contact my frame at full bump. I already have the beams and arms and its all installed. I keep hitting binding issues with the inner shafts. Im around 13.5in of travel from full bump to. Full droop just before inner yoke binding when both tires droop out.

I'm working with an s10 frame, so it's different, but I mounted my radius arms on the beam farther towards the knuckle, getting it away from the frame. I lost turning radius doing that, but I think it's stronger. Not sure what to tell you about your binding issues, but I've heard of people grinding back the u joints for more clearance
 
I'm working with an s10 frame, so it's different, but I mounted my radius arms on the beam farther towards the knuckle, getting it away from the frame. I lost turning radius doing that, but I think it's stronger. Not sure what to tell you about your binding issues, but I've heard of people grinding back the u joints for more clearance
Ive opened uo the intermediate yoke a bunch to gain travel. If i go anymore. Ill have to cut the the bolt that bolts my lower radius arm mounts
 
I've heard some people have an issue with the bolts connecting the radius arms to the beams being too long and contacting the axle shafts, so check that. Looks like you have stock beam mounts and I doubt the Camburg beams are the issue. Other than redesigning the radius arms to clear the frame, maybe somehow your home-extended axle shafts are too long or not straight?
 
I've heard some people have an issue with the bolts connecting the radius arms to the beams being too long and contacting the axle shafts, so check that. Looks like you have stock beam mounts and I doubt the Camburg beams are the issue. Other than redesigning the radius arms to clear the frame, maybe somehow your home-extended axle shafts are too long or not straight?
Yea i shortned the bolt to be within the welded nutsert for max clearance. Opened up the window in the passanger beam. And did a bunch of grinding in the intermediate yoke. Does anyone know if the d44 intermediate yoke aids in droop? My extended shafts are avout .2 wider then the original shaft so i know im loosing a little travel there.

I dont mind setting my bump to just prior radius arm/frame contact. Itll keep diff from getting a hole ppunched in it.lol
 
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