Favorite tire?

I have only had to use my Mynesweepers once but I am glad I had them as it saved me a mile or so of pushing a bike through the hills. I will put them in all my bikes and replace them as needed. My son got a flat a few weeks ago on a bike that hadn't been ridden in a bit and probably rode a little bit on the inset, but just down the gravel road from the house. Also have to support the Newbury Park boys over the other guys.
Update on the IRC Tanken. I have only ridden Ditch loop, the golf course, and the shortcut climb up to the build so take everything with a grain of salt.
So far I am extremely happy with it as a rear tire. I have made a few fast runs down Ditch DH and the breaking where I used it and the flat cornering traction and confidence were right up there with the DHR2 if not better.
Doing test runs on the build berms I only had issues twice and that was due to a bad leak and not having the pressure needed to support me in the corner. After fixing that it has been great in the high load / fast entry berms with no rolling or squirm. Note: I have been running higher pressure since the leak. I lost my accurate gauge but I am right at 30psi on my no where near accurate Walmart pump.
I have had no traction issues on the steep climbs going up the short cut to the build. Even when getting out into the golf balls here and there.
The right tire for you, might be different than the right tire for me. It comes down to your local terrain, and your riding style.
IMO there are four things to think about when choosing a mtb tire.

1) Width - a wider tire 2.4+ will be heavier, but will give you a larger foot print on the trail.
2) Tread pattern - bigger nobs will be less efficient, but will have more traction. In addition to the size of the nobs, is the size of the gaps between the nobs. A tire like a DHF/DHR has big knobs that will grip well, but they may feel sluggish when you pedal. Tires like the Assegai and the Aggressor have more tightly spaced knobs, and will have lots of traction while rolling a little bit more efficiently.
3) You don't need to have matching tires front a rear. That goes for tire width and tread. You can run a 2.6 in the front and 2.4 in the rear. Or an aggressive front tire like a Assegai in the front, and a Recon in the rear.
4) Tire casing - Downhill and enduro tires will be tougher with more resilient sidewalls - but they are heavier. XC tires will weigh much less, but be less resilient to sidewall cuts from rocks.
yeah for me personally with a 30mm inner rim width (which also plays int0 the width thing a good bit as well as into how the sidewall support feels through corners) 2.5 front with a 29" front wheel and a 2.4 rear on a 27.5" wheel feels like a good amount of contact patch front to rear. I also have found that casing plays a greater role than you'd think with traction, because a DH casing for example deforms way less than a trail casing which gives less grip. A trail casing on a narrow rim often feels like the tire is rolling all over the place at lower pressures too.