2015 GMC Sierra build

Connorellisx

Member
Joined
May 31, 2023
Messages
19
Hey dudes, so I wanted to load my truck build on here to maybe help with others if they are working on something similar.
Currently it’s been in a state of being a dirt king race kit for front suspension, and what was supposed to be a simple bedcage to short course links has snowballed out of control to a full cab cage backhalf coming up.
It’s about to go into the fab shop in a couple months here so I wanted to get this up now before it starts going through it’s major transformation

This is this truck in its current state and I’ll post the process down below.
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First the truck started off as a completely stock SLE that I bought brand new in 2015 with no plans of getting into this hobby as I was much too focused on dirt bike ridingIMG_0842.jpeg

In 2017 I then broke my spine in a dirt bike crash leaving me in rods and screws in my back, so in an effort to go towards something safer I started to look at building a truck.

Going through many different brand options and to be completely transparent I hardly knew what I was looking at I bought a
CWF bolt on long travel kit.
2.5x8 inch king c/o
Fiberwerx 6” CF fenders front and rear
Method mr106 wheels and toyo R/t 37/13.50 tires

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I was super thrilled with this stage of the truck but through conversations and learning I found that I was left just wanting more and I was stuck cleaning up the mistakes I made through uninformed purchases.
First of my issues is the offset on the wheels was a -44 which adds a lot more stress on the stock hubs, and also seeing multiple shock buckets get torn off I really wanted to upgrade to a proper “race kit” (depending on the brands marketing) or true long travel kit with fabricated shock towers.
When I was shopping for kits mz was not making them and I had the options of LSK or Dirt King left.

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I landed on the Dirt King race kit and 2.5x10 IBP coilovers that I installed in a driveway with the help of a few buddies.
I chose dirt king due to the upper arms mounting over the frame rails allowing for (in my opinion) a slightly better geometry. And with the taller upright it has a lower scrub radius. It also included billet tie rods and FK heims standard while the other kit had to be upgraded to those.
This was a much more involved process than I had anticipated going in but the kit went together great and the proper kit was noticed as soon as I drove it. The steering immediately felt much lighter due to the scrub and the control of the wheel over bumps was effortless while the prior kit had almost been scary to drive with.

Shortly later I then bought a new set of beadlocks with a -12 offset in order to take the stress of the hubs even more and bring in the scrub to what the kit was designed for.
I went with MR103 methods due to them being one of the strongest load ratings of the beadlocks on the market and I really wanted to try the polished wheel look.

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Here’s where the road started to get bumpy…
I started the process of moving to the rear suspension with the plan on using some 2.5x18 pr coilovers… and some simple tubes to the rear end using the GFW link mounts.

Well… through the obsession of geometry and not wanting to buy parts twice this has snowballed.

What was 2.5 coilovers is now 3.0 IBP coilovers for the rear
What was supposed to be GFW link mounts is now tig welded izzyfab link mounts
What was tubes has now turned into izzyfab tig welded lower links and billet upper links
What was supposed to be a trussed 12b is now a FF camburg rear end
And what was supposed to be a c notch is now Izzy fab frame kicks
And what was supposed to be a bedcage is now an izzyfab trunk and insert.
And what was supposed to be fresh 37s is now 40” KR3s

This has all been collected slowly but surely, hunting race dezert daily, selloffroad on IG and just word of mouth.

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3.0x18 RS coilovers with XL race finned resis and comp adj
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GMT 900 Izzy fab frame kicks and link mounts
4130 TIG


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Picked up a Camburg 76” WMS 3.50 rear end
2.50 hubs
Camburg 2.0 GM front hubs
Yukon third with 4.88 gears
6 piston wilwoods 12” rotors
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Opted for a PCI intercom and Kenwood radio system
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2.5x4 bolt on style bumps for the rear

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Got these 55” tig 4130 lower links and billet uppers from Izzyfab

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Got these PRP custom alphas for the seats

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This is the izzyfab tig welded trunk set up and ready to go.
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here’s the list of parts collected so far, there’s im sure a few smaller things I didn’t post but if this raises any questions I’m happy to answer the why this vs that etc. and I’ll post more on here after she goes under the knife in a couple months here!
Thanks for checking it out👍🏻
 
So I guess it’s time for another update on the sierra build!
We are officially underway and floating on jack stands. So far I have began dismantling everything, sold tons of parts and bought a cab cage kit!
I have now collected every single part I had on the list and more so I couldn’t wait to pull the truck in for that one last time😅
Certain parts such as the dirt king inner fenders are on hold.. to see how they fit in conjunction with the Izzy fab engine cage and also the 40” tires.
 

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to continue with this build I have now gotten the TE designs cab cage in. This is currently in the “unreleased” stage so it came with a couple minor complications that I was able to give feedback to TE in regards to. I was also able to edit a few tubes to be better for my intended use of the vehicle. One being the door bars I was able to notch slightly offset from what they were originally in order to dodge the OEM door panels without cutting slots through them for the tubes to clear. I also chose to not do the bars across the rear doors in order to allow for access from the rear doors to the occupants that will sit back there. All and all I couldn’t be more stoked on this cage. The cost, the fitment, and accuracy of the cuts really
Made the cab cage a fairly easy process considering. 9D7ABE6A-CA70-44E1-B78A-C55D4FEEF86C.jpegC4C6F1C0-F33C-42A1-AB87-E27ADEB65BB2.jpeg
 
Next… I was able to move onto the engine cage. This was a product made available from Izzy fab and again it went together fairly easily. I did find the miters to take a lot more time in order to get them perfectly level and true but still manageable. I was able to make 2” tie ins to the A-pillars of the cab cage. I feel one of the best tools I used doing this was a Milwaukee band file. It really helped to grind down in extremely tight areas in order to get the tubing through the firewall. Making a couple more tie ins was considered but it would have come at the cost of losing my wipers so I opted out of doing that. While putting this together I also added a few tube connectors from kartec that in the case I have to pull the motor in the future it will help for access to that. IMG_1775.jpeg
 

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We got the stock dash in!
This was a massive pain to fit just right, I had to take the mounting assembly and make my own brackets to mount it in order to dodge the A pillars, in the end it ended up working out and going together almost OEM. The AC ducting with some convincing and well… heat… made its way in perfectly. The only issue was the defroster to the driver and passenger windows didn’t make the cut, but as long as the windshield works it will be perfectly fine IMG_1875.jpegIMG_1874.jpeg
 
nice job! Dash fitment is one of the hardest and most tedious things. especially a stock dash!! in and out a million times minimum. lol
 
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