1995 Ford F150 DD prelander

Ok got rear 3rd all regeared with 4.86 gears. Rpm is much better for all around driving with the 35s. 0 noise. Just drained the 85w-140 so ill use that in the front diff. No metal or anything in the rear gear oil and all was good looking through fill plug.
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Had a king snake come inspect my work in the shop, he was happy with the work so I carried him back outside in the bushes. 20250502_195113.jpg
 
Now I had 4.86 rear gears done, I went out to the more race and truck worked awesome.
Now I need to match the front gears.
Installed some 4.88 gears in the front and it all setup great. Im very happy I biught the vevor carrier bearing puller or I wouldn't have been able to do this diff with having to pull bearings to install shims to adjust backlash and pinion depth.
While I had it apart I noticed the middle u joint yoke had some small gouges and I saw one cap was sticking out about 1/8" more than the others. Looking why it was like that I noticed the cap inner snap rings groove was broken off and internal snap rings that hold i joint in was broken. So I got a new u joint and tore that one apart. Once I got the joint out I noticed that ear was slightly bent as well.
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So now that the axle is damaged i figured perfect time for me to upgrade that joint ti run the D50 inner axle with the larger 1350 u joints. I also installed a tok woods offset u joint so I can keep the max 18" travel with stock width and everything works as it should with no binding
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So to run the D50 shaft you need to machine the shaft between the spline and axle bearing since it interfere with the d44 diff and doesn't let the axle go in fully. Also the end of the axle past the snap rings groove is about 1/8" longer and hits the centerpin keeping it from fully going in so snap rings can be installed to keep the axle in place. 20250518_111614.jpg
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Now reassemble the entire front end. Helpful hint when reassembling the D44 front diff install a short 3" piece of all thread into 2 of the holes so you can. Slide those into the beam to slide it in straight so your silicone doesn't get smashed wrong and will seal up fully. Got that all in and installed new 12pt bolts, because race truck, and painted the fill plug gold to match as well.
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Really good stuff here, thank you for the write up, I will give this a shot when the diff comes out for a little investigation on the mystery noise coming from the diff or transfer case.

When I was doing the gears in the bronco I was told the 4.88’s are prone to failure because of the small pinion size.

I’m interested in your opinion on that…
 
Yeah doing the 3" long studs with all thread worls great. I used the top holes so I could lift line them up then slide it in. I then snuggled up 2 bolts, installed side bolts and unscrewed the studs and installed all the rest of the bolts. Then installed axles and filled with gear oil. I also like the 12pt bolts and they look full race and are pretty cheap on allens fasteners. They're also nice if doing a truss with a bolt inside a tube since you can use smaller bolt because smaller socket fits inside smaller tubing.

https://www.allensfasteners.com/sea...chParamTxt=0091A&btnSearch.x=85&btnSearch.y=4
 
Open carrier up front just had to change it to the right one for 4.88 gears.

Yes I tack welded all the ring gear bolts on the rear 3rd. I know a few people who have had to do that on the ring gear bolts and the carrier bolts, specifically on the Ford 10.25 rear axles, which like to come loose more often.
 
Well, took advantage of the lkq half off sale and picked up an expedition center console for the truck. I wanted to find some new seats, but I don't know all of them that I saw there. We're torn or power in missing control buttons. So it didn't want to deal with that.

Also, that plays nickel and dimes you to death. Now they charged me for the center console plus each cigarette lighter installed in the center console plus the wiring harness that runs to the cigarette lighters. I was still happy since I was into it only $22
 
2003-06 ford excursion. Trim front tab off and angle against dash. Then trimmed along the floor between the seats. Doesn't fit flush against whole floor but good enough.
 
Heated and bent tcase shift level to clear console. Also console is offset to pass side about 1/2" because dash contour and tcase shifter but console is in. Didn't fit perfect as I was tired of bending and test fitting the floor bracket 10000 times. Doesn't fit super tight against dash or floor but looks good and is solid. Relocated race radio to little compartment i front of cup holders. Need to trim a little cover piece for above it but super hard to fit that since radio and console in first then cup holder piece has to clip into console base and sides after its all bolted in. Factory threaded bosses on the back above race radio protrude away from back of dash about 3/4" and fit into a recess on the factory cover. That cover also has cigarette lights recessed into it right where the cut would be so gonna just make flat panel piece that ill glue onto the factory piece I'll cut to fill the gap. Sounds like a good project for tomorrow while I have my smoker cooking up some meat for dinner and meal prep.
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I took advantage of the half price weekend at lkq junkyard this weekend. I got some spindles hubs and axles for front of the truck so I can have spares. Gonna make mounts in the bed for steering and axles when I get the camper shell and drawer setup in the truck and get new lower springs to account for added weight.

No photos but I found some perfect not torn seats for the truck as well. The driver is power so gonna figure out what wires for plug to have the forward backwards power setup. Gonna lose the auto tilt/slide forward for pass side but I dgaf since I only sit in driver seat anyways.
 
Well expedition seats I started to mount them up BUT they are too tall from seat to floor so they won't work for me on this one. I have some beard seats I'll make mounts to fit them to stock sliders most likely.
 
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