front arb locker works. Air free spool works. Compressor finished wired. Dash had to be narrowed to fit the door bars (not sure why I have pictures of it in and out with the door bars in but think it’s cause of the center panel). Parker pumper finished. Horns in and wired to a button. Switch pros programmed. Dash mounts in. And I’m sure more. Works been busy and we got a bit of snow over the last week that’s kept me busy
Local Legend Not much left Tacoma left... 4500 koh build
- Thread starter Hambone
- Start date
Lots of stuff fighting me but we are getting there. The passenger seat doesn’t fit as the top shoulder area is wider. And a big overheating issue. Thinking it’s a bad thermostat so going to replace that.
Windshield is out. I made the panels for behind the head. Just need to bead roll and cut the middle out for mesh. My dad’s back and we got one fender mounted. Plan is the other tomorrow. Dash is In for good. Wirings complete. New chase bar on the back above the radiator. Radio mount. Window nets ordered. Seat belts in. And I’m sure more. Haven’t really been taking pictures. Just been working trying to get things done. We went for a small test drive and it felt good.
Steering is very twitchy and feels like it’s trying to find center but wanders back and forth. I can feel it in the wheel like it’s transferring between valves or something if anyone has any input on that.
Windshield is out. I made the panels for behind the head. Just need to bead roll and cut the middle out for mesh. My dad’s back and we got one fender mounted. Plan is the other tomorrow. Dash is In for good. Wirings complete. New chase bar on the back above the radiator. Radio mount. Window nets ordered. Seat belts in. And I’m sure more. Haven’t really been taking pictures. Just been working trying to get things done. We went for a small test drive and it felt good.
Steering is very twitchy and feels like it’s trying to find center but wanders back and forth. I can feel it in the wheel like it’s transferring between valves or something if anyone has any input on that.
Thermostat ordered. Drained the coolant today and caught almost all of it and didn’t make a mess so that was good. My dad and I got the passenger fender mounted. Will try to get that in Friday and start bleeding the system. At some point I’ll try to put some kind of grill on it but it’s a super low priority.
I got the new thermostat in yesterday and a quick heat cycle. I pulled the jiggle valve out of it and made sure to have the hole at the top.
Today I spent all morning trying to bleed it. Someone else suggested the bypass might be causing issues so I pinched it off. At first it seemed to work and right at 160 the thermostat opened and it took a ton of coolant. Was idling with low temps then it just started to climb and never stopped. All the fittings on the radiator and water pump are the same temp so I think this thermostat is atleast opening. I cracked the steam ports till I got coolant. But the passenger side of the radiator is still getting only warm while the driver is hot (75-80* vs 150-160*).
Pretty sure the air bubble is in the radiator. Going to try and jack the back up tomorrow and do some more heat cycles. If that doesn’t work I’ll order a vacuum pump system to vacuum bleed the system. I stood the radiator up to see if that helps too. I’ll try lifting the fill side up some to get the bubble out.
Today I spent all morning trying to bleed it. Someone else suggested the bypass might be causing issues so I pinched it off. At first it seemed to work and right at 160 the thermostat opened and it took a ton of coolant. Was idling with low temps then it just started to climb and never stopped. All the fittings on the radiator and water pump are the same temp so I think this thermostat is atleast opening. I cracked the steam ports till I got coolant. But the passenger side of the radiator is still getting only warm while the driver is hot (75-80* vs 150-160*).
Pretty sure the air bubble is in the radiator. Going to try and jack the back up tomorrow and do some more heat cycles. If that doesn’t work I’ll order a vacuum pump system to vacuum bleed the system. I stood the radiator up to see if that helps too. I’ll try lifting the fill side up some to get the bubble out.
I messed with it more today. Just idling it didn’t take more fluid. I tried lifting the rear with the engine hoist. Shaking the radiator. And all sorts of other stuff including cracking lines. In a last ditch effort went for a drive and backed up a rock and let it Idle. It took longer but it still hit 220. Still feel like there’s an air bubble in the radiator as passenger side was only warm (warmer than before but not hot like the driver).
Talked to some more people and one suggested a higher psi radiator cap so wife grabbed a 20 and 22psi and a new water pump. I ordered fittings to go from the heater barbs to a lines with caps as well.
Tomorrow. I’ll try the different cap and run down to the rock with the funnel and some coolant in a hope to burp the system and maybe clamp off the heater core loop.
The steering’s also giving me issues but been posting in the 4500 steering thread to try and figure that out.
Looks cool. I just want drive it though.
Talked to some more people and one suggested a higher psi radiator cap so wife grabbed a 20 and 22psi and a new water pump. I ordered fittings to go from the heater barbs to a lines with caps as well.
Tomorrow. I’ll try the different cap and run down to the rock with the funnel and some coolant in a hope to burp the system and maybe clamp off the heater core loop.
The steering’s also giving me issues but been posting in the 4500 steering thread to try and figure that out.
Looks cool. I just want drive it though.
Thinking I may have a bad radiator… Im waiting to hear from the company to see what they are going to do before I attempt to add a baffle cause this one isn’t doing anything. My theory is the baffle is allowing hot water to go in and right back out. Company says 10% of fluid should pass but there’s clearly more. The top fitting is the same temp as the bottom fitting and that side of the radiator is same temp as coolant in the motor. Meanwhile the opposite side of the radiator is cool to warm at best. Last pictures are of the baffle through a bore scope.
Plan for fix is a drill a hole in the top of the radiator. Bend the old baffle down. Cut a slit in the middle of the tank and slide a piece of aluminum in and fit it as close to the fins as possible. Then weld it from the outside to close the slit and hold the plate. Then weld a npt bung in the top hole for the steam port return.
Worked on some other things to not be so frustrated. Side number plates (bead roll is just for looks. Number will cover entire plate). Secondary door latches.
Plan for fix is a drill a hole in the top of the radiator. Bend the old baffle down. Cut a slit in the middle of the tank and slide a piece of aluminum in and fit it as close to the fins as possible. Then weld it from the outside to close the slit and hold the plate. Then weld a npt bung in the top hole for the steam port return.
Worked on some other things to not be so frustrated. Side number plates (bead roll is just for looks. Number will cover entire plate). Secondary door latches.
Company agreed to replace the radiator but said it would take roughly 2 weeks to make. I went ahead and added a baffle of my own to the old radiator. Drilled a hole in the top for a npt bung and used a rod to bend the old baffle down. Then cut a slit in the tank and slid a plate in and welded it up. My tig welding isn’t that good and aluminum is even harder. But got it sealed it up and a 180 thermostat installed and no more overheating.
I also adjusted the preload on the steering box cap which took away the darting I was getting when driving on the asphalt.
Finally got to actually drive the thing today and it’s great. It’s fast. Smooth and just overall fun. Hottest I saw was 196 and seemed to stay around 189-192.
I do need to update the Holley computer and screen to v3 so I can upload the “tune” I made which is just changing the inputs to turn on the transmission fan. Not sure if anyone has any experience with this as the screen and ecu are v2 and I’d prefer to just keep it that as I’m not very computer savvy and the updating looks semi complicated.
I also adjusted the preload on the steering box cap which took away the darting I was getting when driving on the asphalt.
Finally got to actually drive the thing today and it’s great. It’s fast. Smooth and just overall fun. Hottest I saw was 196 and seemed to stay around 189-192.
I do need to update the Holley computer and screen to v3 so I can upload the “tune” I made which is just changing the inputs to turn on the transmission fan. Not sure if anyone has any experience with this as the screen and ecu are v2 and I’d prefer to just keep it that as I’m not very computer savvy and the updating looks semi complicated.
the bodj
Well-known member
I went through cooling issues when I did my LS swap. Ended up doing essentially the same thing as you. Added steam port to a dual pass radiator, and dual fans. Works great now. Stoked to see it moving!
My dad and I knocked out a bunch of things yesterday. Mesh on the b pillar in and done. Passenger actual seat in and fits. And a bunch of other stuff. We took it for a 30-35 mile rip today. Helmets and all. Things fast but shocks are soft. It did get hot coming back to the house as it was all uphill and loose but after I got home and it cooled looks like the radiator was a little low. Minute I stopped or slowed down it cooled back off. For good measures I had one fan with more cfm and I just ordered a second.
He also cut up the bedsides so he could take them home and fiberglass the tail light sections back on. Should look cool overlapping the body.
It also has a vibration at 50-55 and seems to keep getting worse from the front driveshaft (I’m assuming as that had the most run out of the two). We had it up to 60 ish I think. So more than likely will take that to be balanced or just have one made.
Chasing some leaks and the rear axle keeps puking oil out the breather but other than that it seems to run good. Honestly couldn’t be happier.
He also cut up the bedsides so he could take them home and fiberglass the tail light sections back on. Should look cool overlapping the body.
It also has a vibration at 50-55 and seems to keep getting worse from the front driveshaft (I’m assuming as that had the most run out of the two). We had it up to 60 ish I think. So more than likely will take that to be balanced or just have one made.
Chasing some leaks and the rear axle keeps puking oil out the breather but other than that it seems to run good. Honestly couldn’t be happier.
Winch line spooled. Rustys 4x4 recovery gear was nice enough to send me a big box of their hand woven gear from South Africa. They also have a us dealer out of Colorado (Jayhawks trailer in commerce city). Looking forward to trying their stuff out. And my dad picked up a flat link after seeing them and how much easier it was to winch with at hammers.
The come up competition seal 8.0 winch is also insanely fast.
Jack extension. And did a Holley screen to make it easier to watch gauges
The come up competition seal 8.0 winch is also insanely fast.
Jack extension. And did a Holley screen to make it easier to watch gauges
But it runs good otherwise. Looking forward to having the shocks done. We are going to sand hollow this coming weekend. Moab ultra4 was a little too much money for 2 hours of racing.
The thing makes some dust. Smoked both driver tires on a rock and put decent gouges in both side walls. They don’t leak yet.
And the bushings for the exhaust already melted an fell apart if anyone has suggestions for them. Just chasing down leaks
The thing makes some dust. Smoked both driver tires on a rock and put decent gouges in both side walls. They don’t leak yet.
And the bushings for the exhaust already melted an fell apart if anyone has suggestions for them. Just chasing down leaks
Going in circles. Made a few panels to funnel air into the radiator and a window scoop for the passenger extra cab window. Drove it again. It still got to 220 like normal but I pushed it to 225 and it seemed to linger between 220-225 for a while. Same thing. Once I stop it cooled back off to 190-200 extremely fast. I’ll crack the steak piers again to make sure there’s no lingering air.
If the panels stay I’ll have to add some tabs. The zip ties aren’t my favorite and it’s just to see if these work.
We are going to sand hollow for a few days so it’s staying how it is for now but not sure where to go from here.
Thinking maybe put the 160 tstat back in to start. Then I can go to higher cfm fans from spal (1800 cfm per fan vs 1250 per fan currently), and if those don’t work look at making a new shroud possibly with bigger fans or just redoing the radiator mount.
If the panels stay I’ll have to add some tabs. The zip ties aren’t my favorite and it’s just to see if these work.
We are going to sand hollow for a few days so it’s staying how it is for now but not sure where to go from here.
Thinking maybe put the 160 tstat back in to start. Then I can go to higher cfm fans from spal (1800 cfm per fan vs 1250 per fan currently), and if those don’t work look at making a new shroud possibly with bigger fans or just redoing the radiator mount.
Day 2 at sandhollow and temps aren’t an issue at all even when it was 90-100 yesterday. Idling it stays around 180-185 and crawling it actually gets cool enough to turn off the second fan (170-175). Beat on it on a few dirt roads and never got over 210. Few things rub. Driver sway bar gets into the panhard mount so that needs bent more. Front bypasses need some anti wobbles to keep the fittings from getting into the frame. Just have a bungee cord pulling them over for now.
It crawls really well. Spins tires super easy. Crawling with 37s is different. It looks like a toy next to my dad’s jeepster.
Struggling getting the iac set correctly so it died a lot today and yesterday. Turned the idle up tonight so it doesn’t die when revved up and coming back to idle. Looking for a tuner recommendation. Preferably someone in Vegas or southern Utah who I can go to with the car.
Overall I’m happy. I’m looking into brushless fans and just trying to decide which ones to go with. The factory ones are a lot cheaper but I would probably want to get oem ones for better quality.
It crawls really well. Spins tires super easy. Crawling with 37s is different. It looks like a toy next to my dad’s jeepster.
Struggling getting the iac set correctly so it died a lot today and yesterday. Turned the idle up tonight so it doesn’t die when revved up and coming back to idle. Looking for a tuner recommendation. Preferably someone in Vegas or southern Utah who I can go to with the car.
Overall I’m happy. I’m looking into brushless fans and just trying to decide which ones to go with. The factory ones are a lot cheaper but I would probably want to get oem ones for better quality.
Turning the idle up definitely helped keep it running. Weather sent us home a day early but we still did 6ish trails over the 4 days. Wheeling with 37s is different. The car is small and very nimble. Turns good even with the rear spool.
Things to fix is minimal. Both front sway bars need bent out as they rub the frame/panhard mount when flexed out hard. And the front bypass fittings rub the frame when flexed as well. I either need some anti wobble bushings to keep it locked one way or try and clock the bypass some more.
Cooling was a non issue too. But I’m looking into using the Chevy volt brushless fans
Car averaged about 2 miles to the gallon which isn’t good lol
And I want to get the car tuned. Not sure if having some remote tune is worth it or try and find someone local. Talked to dr. Efi on Instagram and he seems to have a big presence on the Holley forum and may go with him if I can’t find anyone else.
For now I’ll clean it up and get it ready for shock tuning hopefully Monday or Tuesday.
Things to fix is minimal. Both front sway bars need bent out as they rub the frame/panhard mount when flexed out hard. And the front bypass fittings rub the frame when flexed as well. I either need some anti wobble bushings to keep it locked one way or try and clock the bypass some more.
Cooling was a non issue too. But I’m looking into using the Chevy volt brushless fans
Car averaged about 2 miles to the gallon which isn’t good lol
And I want to get the car tuned. Not sure if having some remote tune is worth it or try and find someone local. Talked to dr. Efi on Instagram and he seems to have a big presence on the Holley forum and may go with him if I can’t find anyone else.
For now I’ll clean it up and get it ready for shock tuning hopefully Monday or Tuesday.
Got the shocks tuned yesterday. I dropped off the front coilovers last Thursday and they did some stuff to the pistons. We only pulled the rear bypasses and they changed the shims in them. I thought it was pretty good before but it’s really good now. Vital motion works here in Vegas did them and look forward to more when I get more comfortable.
The only thing I was unsure of is they wanted me to do it all on 4wd. I ended up doing two passes in 4wd and felt a little better but I was definitely going slower as I was worried to hurt the front end or tcase.
My friend that owns vital motion also got me in contact with JP at total racing solutions and this morning he remotes in and tuned the motor. He found a few things wrong and wants a data log this week to make a few final tweaks. And th brushless Chevy volt fans showed up
I also obliterated a rock behind a bush after getting a little squirrely off a bump and destroyed a rim and took out a brake line. Closed the valve for the rear and clamped the line and continued on.
The only thing I was unsure of is they wanted me to do it all on 4wd. I ended up doing two passes in 4wd and felt a little better but I was definitely going slower as I was worried to hurt the front end or tcase.
My friend that owns vital motion also got me in contact with JP at total racing solutions and this morning he remotes in and tuned the motor. He found a few things wrong and wants a data log this week to make a few final tweaks. And th brushless Chevy volt fans showed up
I also obliterated a rock behind a bush after getting a little squirrely off a bump and destroyed a rim and took out a brake line. Closed the valve for the rear and clamped the line and continued on.
Thinking I have a bad iac. Sent a data log to the tuner and it either only wants to start hot or cold. No matter what he does to the iac, it doesn’t seem to do anything. Working on testing the old iac and ordered a new acdelco one.
I also got the new fans mounted and wired. Made a new shroud that’s 2” vs the original was 1/2”. I wired the positive to the battery switch and ran the pwm signal wire to the holley inputs. Now just need to configure them in the computer.
I also got the new fans mounted and wired. Made a new shroud that’s 2” vs the original was 1/2”. I wired the positive to the battery switch and ran the pwm signal wire to the holley inputs. Now just need to configure them in the computer.
the bodj
Well-known member
Awesome to see it in the dirt! I have issues with cooling my truck that seem similar to yours. I ran it through chatgpt, which suggested using 70:30 water:coolant, and one bottle of WaterWetter. It said that should be good for 10-30* cooling difference, as the water is the best for cooling, coolant offers corrosion resistance, and WaterWetter reduces surface tension of water, allowing more contact area with the radiator. I don't have to deal with freezing temps, so I'm going to give this a shot.
Similar threads
