Fabricated Pitman Arm

FENDERFAB

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 14, 2022
Messages
191
Hey Guys.

Looking to see if anyone knows any companies making fabricated pitman arms for ford ranger steering box
 
I used to make them all the time. Just need a clean pitman arm off whichever box you are using and build from there. I would imagine you have specific fitment requirements, not sure there is a fabricated one off the shelf that will work. If you send me the arm and some dimensions I can make you one.

One of the last ones I made. I believe this was a IH Scout box on F-150.

PICT0619.jpg
 
Thank you!

I have a stock pitman arm on my truck. First of all its single shear so i would like to have it be double sheared and also stronger than the factory cast piece.

Ill grab some pictures tonight
 
I marked up one of your pics. What I would do is move the heim that is on top of the pitman arm down a little. This will help relax the angle that that link is on. Then extend the link and move the pivot as far as possible to the passenger side. Also I do not see a ram assist (dark pic, maybe it is there) I highly recommend one tied to the center link/frame.


FF_steering_mu.jpg
 
I marked up one of your pics. What I would do is move the heim that is on top of the pitman arm down a little. This will help relax the angle that that link is on. Then extend the link and move the pivot as far as possible to the passenger side. Also I do not see a ram assist (dark pic, maybe it is there) I highly recommend one tied to the center link/frame.


View attachment 14423

This helps out a TON- Thank you!

How do i go about adding a ram assist? I am assuming i would need to send my box out to be setup for the ram? I am currently running a stock ranger box with a Howe TC pump on the ls motor
 
Yes, must have auxiliary ports on box. Send it out.

I don't remember what stroke ram we used to run, but just full steer one way, make a reference point, then full steer the other way and see what the distance is. Get a ram slightly longer than that distance. It gets tight in there depending on motor, motor placement and oil pan size.
 
Yes, must have auxiliary ports on box. Send it out.

I don't remember what stroke ram we used to run, but just full steer one way, make a reference point, then full steer the other way and see what the distance is. Get a ram slightly longer than that distance. It gets tight in there depending on motor, motor placement and oil pan size.
Got it thank you! Do you know by chance who would be able to add the ports to the box?
 
Good to know!

So who left the show? I know the CNC folks retired and decided not to sell. I really thought I heard something about LEE. Maybe just changed hands?
believe Lee retired or passed away? and it was taken over by one of the guys in the shop? Its been a few years since i talked to them.
 
I marked up one of your pics. What I would do is move the heim that is on top of the pitman arm down a little. This will help relax the angle that that link is on. Then extend the link and move the pivot as far as possible to the passenger side. Also I do not see a ram assist (dark pic, maybe it is there) I highly recommend one tied to the center link/frame.

Bringing the pitman arm down further like you suggested will mean the main tie rod is going to need to have more bend in it to clear at full compression/lock.

All the trucks ive done the box has too be moved up to have tie rods be straight and have the proper amount of up travel, with that box being in the factory location still and the tie rod already having a bend in it there is no way to move that down to correct the angle of the dangle without putting a significant amount more bend in that main tie rod.

In a perfect world that tie rod coming off the pitman needs to go all the way over to the passenger side swinger like you mentioned. It looks like there is enough room to the bottom of the frame to do it as well, that will lessen the angle on that specific tie rod coming off the pitman arm without messing with the drop of the pitman arm and having to put more bend into the main tie rod.

The way its setup currently going to the center link is fine, but there needs to be wobble stoppers on each heim in the swingers to keep the center link from rolling over, as well as tack the jam nuts and heims to the tie rod so nothing breaks free. Having that center link roll over at speed when youre trying to turn can lead to some sketchy shit
 
kinda confused about LEE. I been using Lee for 30 years till a few years ago. could not get a hold of them, phones out. contacted charlie and he told me that Lee closed down. charlie was one of his main guys if not the only one.. thats why he started his own steering company. been using him ever since. maybe the Lee name came back but thats not the old shop i used to drive to.
 
Bringing the pitman arm down further like you suggested will mean the main tie rod is going to need to have more bend in it to clear at full compression/lock.

All the trucks ive done the box has too be moved up to have tie rods be straight and have the proper amount of up travel, with that box being in the factory location still and the tie rod already having a bend in it there is no way to move that down to correct the angle of the dangle without putting a significant amount more bend in that main tie rod.

In a perfect world that tie rod coming off the pitman needs to go all the way over to the passenger side swinger like you mentioned. It looks like there is enough room to the bottom of the frame to do it as well, that will lessen the angle on that specific tie rod coming off the pitman arm without messing with the drop of the pitman arm and having to put more bend into the main tie rod.

The way its setup currently going to the center link is fine, but there needs to be wobble stoppers on each heim in the swingers to keep the center link from rolling over, as well as tack the jam nuts and heims to the tie rod so nothing breaks free. Having that center link roll over at speed when youre trying to turn can lead to some sketchy shit

The heim can be brought down enough to relax the angle with a fabricated pitman arm and the bottom nut will not be any lower than the one that is currently on there. Just bringing cL down to the middle of the OE arm (blue arrow) will make this happen safely, possibly more but tough to tell without having the truck in the shop and front end cycled.


FF_steering_mu2.jpg

The goal would be to get the short tie rod run as close to the passenger side swinger given the setup he already has and as much inline as possible with the center link and he should be good to go. He should not have to run anti-wobbles on the center link, and in my opinion should not have to tack jam nuts.
 
I just designed and built one for a buddies truck last week. Build quite a few over the years.. I recommend minworx in az for box rebuild, porting, and turning. He has been building my steering boxes and customer boxes for years great guy and super knowledgeable. A few big name companies said my box wouldn't last with 40s and I have been racing on it for a few years with 40s and no issues. There is a guy that sells the pucks that u can build off of. I think they are like $100. I can DM u his info if anyone needs it. That are alot bigger than the stock ones.
 

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I just designed and built one for a buddies truck last week. Build quite a few over the years.. I recommend minworx in az for box rebuild, porting, and turning. He has been building my steering boxes and customer boxes for years great guy and super knowledgeable. A few big name companies said my box wouldn't last with 40s and I have been racing on it for a few years with 40s and no issues. There is a guy that sells the pucks that u can build off of. I think they are like $100. I can DM u his info if anyone needs it. That are alot bigger than the stock ones.
I would be interested in a puck to build my own set up.
 
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