Bypass theory

SaltyMethods said:
Question for you. When running both a bypass and coilover on the front end, do you normally remove the valving from the coilover all together and let the bypass handle all of the work or do you still leave some valving in there to help?
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it really all depends on the motion ratio of the system the less ratio you have the less valving that is needed, most small/less than 16" travel A-ARM trucks will run a little but of valving in the coil over to control the low speed, beam trucks don't need much at all due to the ratio, this truck has no valving in the coilovers front or rear
neither does this one
but they do have a good bypass that allows that to happen
 
ADSRACINGSHOCKS said:
it really all depends on the motion ratio of the system the less ratio you have the less valving that is needed, most small/less than 16" travel A-ARM trucks will run a little but of valving in the coil over to control the low speed, beam trucks don't need much at all due to the ratio, this truck has no valving in the coilovers front or rear
neither does this one
but they do have a good bypass that allows that to happen
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That first one makes me think I'm watching a rc car or its anther clip from beam.ng. Crazy stuff.
 
One person says leave them in, another says take them out?? I get it, it's personal preference.

If I was to remove the valving in mine, do you just remove all the shim stacks or do you replace what's currently there with something super high flow?
 
SaltyMethods said:
One person says leave them in, another says take them out?? I get it, it's personal preference.

If I was to remove the valving in mine, do you just remove all the shim stacks or do you replace what's currently there with something super high flow?
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I have no experience with this. But im interested on feedback.
First of all, assuming your Coilover alone wad valved decently.
My thought process is as a starting point, to move C/O valving to the new Bypass and then put 8 stacks for rebound and comp in the C/O. This way the coilover is doing some work and reducing heat in the bypass.
 
96f-u250 said:
My thought process is as a starting point, to move C/O valving to the new Bypass and then put 8 stacks for rebound and comp in the C/O. This way the coilover is doing some work and reducing heat in the bypass.
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I feel like the bypass should be able to handle almost all if not all the dampening on its own. My rear bypass handles all the dampening in the rear since I have leafs. Leaving some valving in the coilover would make the valving in the bypass way more confusing.

Again, this is new to me so I'm just shooting from the hip on this.
 
SaltyMethods said:
I feel like the bypass should be able to handle almost all if not all the dampening on its own. My rear bypass handles all the dampening in the rear since I have leafs. Leaving some valving in the coilover would make the valving in the bypass way more confusing.

Again, this is new to me so I'm just shooting from the hip on this.
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with a good bypass layout and good tube flow it will have the ability to do most of the work, your rear bypass on a leaf spring does not have any low speed damping generally, the only low speed effect it will have is the crack pressure on the springs in the valves not always a bad thing but some vehicles and drivers will like a little more low speed control,
very vague way to look at it is the more you take out of the coil over the more you will need to put in the bypass, each bypass is different on how much fluid it can flow thru its tubes, staggered tubes have about half the flow in the lower portion of the travel, overlapping will have quite a bit more flow allowing us to run more piston valving to get a stronger bump zone, without knowing the exact vehicle we can only make general recommendations
 
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