Automotive painting

[85Yota]

I have welded studs and used slide hammer to try and get the sheet metal closer so you use less filler but some dents you gotta cut/replace the panel. I've also just kept a bunch of bondo since it looked good for a truck that wasn't gonna be a show truck and was gonna get scratched and dented up anyways.

My f150 has lots of dents. Small ones I'll push them out from the bqckside if I ever decide to paint the truck. The cab on mine i need to cut and weld since it's smashed really good on multiple layers. I usually only have cut and replaced metal when it's rotted or if I had a new part of the panel and could do a weld seam where body work wouldn't be as noticeable aka not in middle of a flat panel like bedside or cab.

 

[85Yota]

I may try and get the body work done on this truck and paint it for next season. I'll be doing it all myself to save money, But even the cost of the paint is expensive now in Cali. I've heard of people going to Baja to buy good oil based paint for cheap and bringing back to paint with it.

 

[vcyota92]

I think my 4runner has a ton of body filler on the passenger rear. been thinking about wtf ID do to it if i started trying to make it better. But also would be nice to see what is there and probably could justify getting Fiberglass quarter panels if its to nasty. what did you do about your body sheet metal issues? did you work it out or just massage it enough and call it good with less body filler?

After taking it down to metal I was able to hammer some out, cut and replace some sections, and others just way less was needed to make it smoot. That being said it’s still far from show quality but it’s a good 10/10 paint job. Aka 10feet away at 10mph lol You can see how much was on in one of these pictures and that’s after I was hitting it with a strip disk for a bit

 

[Cleandezert]

I know a Toyota you can practice on. It’s already 4 different colors.

I have been trying to get him to paint that for like 6 years now... he refuses.

 

[cbrewer22]

I have been trying to get him to paint that for like 6 years now... he refuses.

It’s the Mexican in him. josb now is ur chance. Maaco is overrated. Go to Adams Paint Jobs, we’re it will all be one color. On a side note. Is that thing even driving or is it like my rangers and just sitting rotting away. All I hear about now is the raptor. Is that the new toy. Shit I don’t even hear about the r8 anymore, is it still around. actually I don’t even get text anymore. When is the next guys trip/ getaway.

 

[Cleandezert]

It’s the Mexican in him. josb now is ur chance. Maaco is overrated. Go to Adams Paint Jobs, we’re it will all be one color. On a side note. Is that thing even driving or is it like my rangers and just sitting rotting away. All I hear about now is the raptor. Is that the new toy. Shit I don’t even hear about the r8 anymore, is it still around. actually I don’t even get text anymore. When is the next guys trip/ getaway.

Should of came out to laser town this weekend.

 

[cbrewer22]

Should of came out to laser town this weekend.

I wanted to but I had my nephews birthday and my brother was telling us there new kids gender. was it just you and Trevor.

 

[Cleandezert]

I wanted to but I had my nephews birthday and my brother was telling us there new kids gender. was it just you and Trevor.

was just me and the fam,

 

[SaltyMethods]

Got at it this weekend and I setup my paint booth and had all my fenders ready for paint. Got through the primer coat on Saturday and was expecting to get through the base color coat and clear coat on Sunday. Sunday comes and read the instructions on putting down the color and clear and quickly realized that I got the wrong clear. I at least got the color coat down and now I have to wait til I send back current clear and get the right clear back.

Putting down the color really highlights the lack of effort I did sanding my fenders. I'm crossing my fingers that once I get the clear on there, it will hide some of it. Ultimately, I don't care because it's going to get thrashed and I'm just glad it's going to be the same color again.




I taped these air filters to the intake/outflow box fans. Definitely helped keep the spray dust down but I definitely lost some brain cells being inside that booth for hours.

 

[Cleandezert]

that is rad. great job. interested to see how it comes out with the clear. Does it hurt anything spraying the clear days or weeks after?

 

[juberafab]

Calling @FasterNU or anyone else who has painted a vehicle.

I really want to learn this part of the trade. I dont think i will ever be great, but super interested in trying it out. I could use some peoples insight and experience.

I have some stuff on my 56 that needs paint... curious of how you prep, what you shoot with, air compressor/gun.

Ultimately i am trying to talk a friend into doing the body work and painting his 65 c10, as currently he just spray painted it.

Just come over and I will show you how much it sucks to do.

 

[SaltyMethods]

that is rad. great job. interested to see how it comes out with the clear. Does it hurt anything spraying the clear days or weeks after?

Not sure? I'm hoping allowing the paint to cure longer will make for a better paint job? Don't know though.

Just come over and I will show you how much it sucks to do.

Ha! Seriously... It does suck. I thought I would enjoy the painting phase a lot more than the fiberglass and bondo repair phase. What I now know is that both phases suck equally. Lots of respect for body repair shops.

 

[85Yota]

that is rad. great job. interested to see how it comes out with the clear. Does it hurt anything spraying the clear days or weeks after?

Not for when I did it. I sprayed my motorcycle and got a small run, so I sanded it smooth, resprayed the color. Then a couple days later I sprayed clear coat on it and worked perfectly fine

 

[the bodj]

I think you're technically supposed to lightly scuff the base coat if doing clear coat later, to give the clear something to hold to. When you spray the clear immediately after the base, the base is still tacky, so the clear binds to that.

 

[juberafab]

I used to do body work for a living and finally got out of it. I hate all aspects of body work and paing prep. That is probably why the race truck looks the way it does. Lol Wife's truck always looked mint. Make sure to use a good sealer and a good clear. When I was in the game you were lucky if aftermarket clear coat lasted 5 to 8 years before it started to check / fail. I am sure the stuff now of days is better. Painting is the easy part. Everything is in the prep. If you don't do it right the paint will look like crap. Guide coat and high build primer is ur friends for getting smooth surfaces. If u are going to clear later after the base coat cures make sure you follow the prep recommendations. i recommend to spray clear once the base coat tack up so you get chemical adhesion and not mechanical adhesion.

 

[SaltyMethods]

Too late for me. I already sprayed the primer and the base color. I have send back the clear and get new clear. I’ll lightly sand the base color and hope it holds.

 

[juberafab]

You should be fine if you scuffed it. They make a white or gray scotch Brite that we used to use after locking the prime with a detergent to get all the grease/ oils off the panels before paining. Probably work good for base that is cured to clear.

For anyone that is curious. I was told that single stage could take a rock hit better than base clear cuz it was more flexable or something like that. Idk how true it is but the wifes truck never really had issues with rock chips and all the glass was single stage. Single stage metallic is a pain to paint on big panels. I two stage my bedside on my truck and the clear lasted about 5 years before it failed. I never cut and buffed it.

 

[Fenix Motorsports]

Paint and body is the bane of my existence, mainly the fact that it seems I have to do every single panel twice at least to get the end result that I like. I just go from a light 200/300 to a 400wet or 600 dry, then shoot primer/sealer/base/clear, repeating the sanding procedure between the primer/sealer and before the base, sprayed the clear on it right after the base flashed over (about 15 minutes). I also sprayed water all over the floor in the shop so the dirt doesn't get sucked up off the ground right into the wet paint. I'd say I got some pretty decent end results, although this was after a light cut and buff as well.