89 4x4 Toyota pickup shock valving

prerantaco

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Oct 8, 2022
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Hey trying to figure out a good starting point for my revalve. Ive got a 89 4x4 Toyota pickup extra cab 4cyl of fury 5sp running the Total chaos 2x4 race kit 2.5x12 fox dual rate 500lb over 500lb springs. Full cage deavers in the rear with 16in fox double bypass. So my issue is the front is running through the travel fast and bottoming out, the rear is working well so I need to get the front to work better. On the bottom of the coilovers are tagged 40/30 valving. Should I move to 45/30 or 50/30 to get it to slow the travel down?
 
Hey trying to figure out a good starting point for my revalve. Ive got a 89 4x4 Toyota pickup extra cab 4cyl of fury 5sp running the Total chaos 2x4 race kit 2.5x12 fox dual rate 500lb over 500lb springs. Full cage deavers in the rear with 16in fox double bypass. So my issue is the front is running through the travel fast and bottoming out, the rear is working well so I need to get the front to work better. On the bottom of the coilovers are tagged 40/30 valving. Should I move to 45/30 or 50/30 to get it to slow the travel down?
we sent a DM (y)
 
I have zero info on your valving question... I only came in here to ask you to post some pics of your truck!
Lol no problem I'll do a post later on the build.
 

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Run #90 compression #60 rebound, and double the 1.1 shim on compression. Also run 250psi in the shocks to help minimize cavitation. Also make sure you have about 1” preload on the springs with the truck at droop and hanging on the limit straps
 
Run #90 compression #60 rebound, and double the 1.1 shim on compression. Also run 250psi in the shocks to help minimize cavitation. Also make sure you have about 1” preload on the springs with the truck at droop and hanging on the limit straps
Thanks man. Do you have any other tips
 
Run #90 compression #60 rebound, and double the 1.1 shim on compression. Also run 250psi in the shocks to help minimize cavitation. Also make sure you have about 1” preload on the springs with the truck at droop and hanging on the limit straps
Double 1.1 like a flutter stack?
 
Double it meaning run two of those shims against eachother. It won’t quite act like a .030 shim, but similar idea. It’ll keep the main shims easy to crack open and bleed on small and medium hits but on larger hits where it starts to engage the rest of the shim stack it will help a ton.
Also, run some foam shaft bumps if you can. Eibach makes some and king as well. If you are craft on Amazon searches you might be able to find some FOAM BUMPS for your STRUTS haha
 
Like kevin said you'll at least need to double up that first shim on compression but id even say you may need more than that. Heavier bottom coil may help too, crazy how much difference even 50lbs of coil can make. You dont even want to know the crazy shim stacks ive run on single coilvoer applications lol
 
Double it meaning run two of those shims against eachother. It won’t quite act like a .030 shim, but similar idea. It’ll keep the main shims easy to crack open and bleed on small and medium hits but on larger hits where it starts to engage the rest of the shim stack it will help a ton.
Also, run some foam shaft bumps if you can. Eibach makes some and king as well. If you are craft on Amazon searches you might be able to find some FOAM BUMPS for your STRUTS haha
Thanks, there is a lot to learn. I do have bumps on now, there old school foxs like the rest of the truck haha. The bumps are 2.5x4.
 
Like kevin said you'll at least need to double up that first shim on compression but id even say you may need more than that. Heavier bottom coil may help too, crazy how much difference even 50lbs of coil can make. You dont even want to know the crazy shim stacks ive run on single coilvoer applications lol
I tend to error toward a lighter valved setup for people without knowing their driving style vs throwing them that extra harsh valving stack right out of the gate haha. Plus that stack is a huge gain in performance from where he’s at currently (assuming the stamping is correct)

A friends old silverado with a single 2.5x10 coilover up front ran .020’s on compression, every shim was doubled except the face shim and fulcrum shims, 3rd from smallest was trippled, BUT i did add in a smaller diameter fulcrum shim to help get things flowing a bit more easily. We had to put race series resis on them and ran 350psi in them haha it was absolutely sketchy but somehow it actually worked decently. We hit the big line on main once and it was a wild ride but it did it
 
Like kevin said you'll at least need to double up that first shim on compression but id even say you may need more than that. Heavier bottom coil may help too, crazy how much difference even 50lbs of coil can make. You dont even want to know the crazy shim stacks ive run on single coilvoer applications lol
What makes you think more? Just trying to learn more over here haha. Upping the coil lbs was my first thought but with the speed the shaft moves with out nitrogen I started thinking the valves might be soft or worn out. The guy I bought the truck from was a large Samoan guy. the drivers side was blown front and rear lol the local shop I had do new seals and oil asked what happened to the driver's side. I never asked what valves were in it at the time and wish I had. I'll be pulling them off soon to inspect and see what they are.
Thank
 
Double it meaning run two of those shims against eachother. It won’t quite act like a .030 shim, but similar idea. It’ll keep the main shims easy to crack open and bleed on small and medium hits but on larger hits where it starts to engage the rest of the shim stack it will help a ton.
Also, run some foam shaft bumps if you can. Eibach makes some and king as well. If you are craft on Amazon searches you might be able to find some FOAM BUMPS for your STRUTS haha

URO Parts 1H0412303B Strut Bump...

This fit perfectly on my 2.5 King Bypass shocks in the front of my Tacoma. Definitely added some bottoming resistance. I don’t have have air bumps on the front, but the bypass has a pretty aggressive rate plate set up with all the bleed holes closed.
 
What makes you think more? Just trying to learn more over here haha. Upping the coil lbs was my first thought but with the speed the shaft moves with out nitrogen I started thinking the valves might be soft or worn out. The guy I bought the truck from was a large Samoan guy. the drivers side was blown front and rear lol the local shop I had do new seals and oil asked what happened to the driver's side. I never asked what valves were in it at the time and wish I had. I'll be pulling them off soon to inspect and see what they are.
Thank
Just personal experience on my own truck. More spring (within reason) doesn’t make a drastic change in how stuff it is but completely changes how the suspension reacts to larger holes. Makes it float more rather than falling into ever hole.
 
Video from our trip. The truck ran good till picking up speed in the rythems. The rear seems to hang up at speed, 30mph to 35mph smooth and just went over them but as soon as 40mph to 45mph the rear would buck up
 
Can’t see much in that video but the buck is caused by running out of travel and bottoming out. Ritter from compression being too soft, rebound bring too slow causing the suspension to pack up or ride height too low.
 
Can’t see much in that video but the buck is caused by running out of travel and bottoming out. Ritter from compression being too soft, rebound bring too slow causing the suspension to pack up or ride height too low.
I have to go through the other videos and edit them down and post a better of the rear. I'm leaning towards the rebound being too slow from one of the other videos the rear didn't droop out fully before landing back to the ground. It looked like it was about mid stroke and I know it droops out more then what the video showed. I'll try and get that up later on
 
rad to see another toyota prerunner! Short arm trucks are always a bit of give and take for what you want it to do. I ended up cutting off everything on my pick up and just went with a set of giant equal length beams. that made the biggest difference in how my truck handled. but kinda a can of worms to setup lol
 
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