Dylan Ford
New member
- Joined
- Jan 8, 2023
- Messages
- 7
Linking my truck in the next few months, not the smartest or dumbest guy any and all tips, tricks, angles would be appreciated
4 link tips and tricks
- Thread starter Dylan Ford
- Start date
Giant Geoff
Well-known member
7 important points to focus
on when doing a 4-link to make setting up easier:
1. never mount the shocks forward of centerline on the overall length of the link
2. Always Mount lower Link directly below the housing to relieve and take out Torsional load applied to the uppers so it’s more relaxed
3. Mount Lowerly closest to the brakes before tire bulge gets into the link arm to reduce sway and create more shock clearance from the frame
4. Make the upper and lower frame pivot points close to each other for best geometry
5. Mount as much weight behind the axle to balance overall chassis
6. Spring rate is determined on complete truck weight based off how much the springs compress at ride height, you want to have 9/16 between each coil instead of weighing the vehicle
7. Size and valve shocks for how fast do you want to go
on when doing a 4-link to make setting up easier:
1. never mount the shocks forward of centerline on the overall length of the link
2. Always Mount lower Link directly below the housing to relieve and take out Torsional load applied to the uppers so it’s more relaxed
3. Mount Lowerly closest to the brakes before tire bulge gets into the link arm to reduce sway and create more shock clearance from the frame
4. Make the upper and lower frame pivot points close to each other for best geometry
5. Mount as much weight behind the axle to balance overall chassis
6. Spring rate is determined on complete truck weight based off how much the springs compress at ride height, you want to have 9/16 between each coil instead of weighing the vehicle
7. Size and valve shocks for how fast do you want to go
Cleandezert
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 7, 2022
- Messages
- 1,057
I am curious about number 2 and 4? I know newline (camburg stole their goemtry) SI and such mount the lowers off the front of the links to move instant center infront of the truck, and not in the middle... When i linked my ranger back in the day, i looked long and hard at your geometry and SI geometry... I decided to split the difference. lol My thought was instant center out in front would keep the truck planted in the whoops, which to me seemed to ride good, but also didnt want to put all the torsional load of the rear end on the uppers like you mentioned in 2. I think i put mine like 20-30% off the bottom... Also my thought was off the bottom means the links sit lower and more apt to hit shit.
I will also say depending on the truck you link, the upper inner mounts will likely only be able to go in 1 location. I know on rangers you can only get them so high because of frame and cab, on the toyota i linked we put the mounts right ontop of the frame. Both of these trucks had the front lower mounts just below the frame. both seemed to work decent. I found most people get so scared about the geometry, but in reality its going to be a million times better than leaf springs no matter which goemetry ques you take.
I will also say depending on the truck you link, the upper inner mounts will likely only be able to go in 1 location. I know on rangers you can only get them so high because of frame and cab, on the toyota i linked we put the mounts right ontop of the frame. Both of these trucks had the front lower mounts just below the frame. both seemed to work decent. I found most people get so scared about the geometry, but in reality its going to be a million times better than leaf springs no matter which goemetry ques you take.
the bodj
Well-known member
This is 100% truth!
I really wanted to mount my lowers off the front of the axle and the front mounts off the side of the frame, but it just didn't get me the geometry or strength I wanted. 100% it looks better being tucked higher, and I don't love the way mine look hanging low, but it definitely works well.
Giant Geoff
Well-known member
You’re right about the lower mounting in front of the axle putting a great load onto the uppers which wears out your joints and can cause parts to fail. People talk about how technical it is and all these different variables that are scary and quite confusing. I approach it as, these Link arms being long, really dumbs down the technical aspect and the weight needed to get it to perform dumbs it down even more to where I don’t even consider Roll center, anti-squat, anti dive type things. I work on my 7 principles that I know take a stronger effect on what I’m doing instead of these, whacked out theories that don’t apply much after I have the right weight.
Sterling_vH111
Member
Anti squat is the geometry built into a suspension design that resists the squatting of the rear end upon acceleration. Basically there are simple designs that will squat, but this effect can be negated some by how/where the links are mounted on the axle, frame, and relative to each other.
Mountain bikes and motorcycles take this design to more extreme lengths, with things like linkages and motion ratios. Even things like chain and sprocket locations effect this on 2 wheeled things, obviously doesn't apply here tho.
84Prerunner
Well-known member
Easiest way to think about it goes back to good ol Mr.Newton.
When you accelerate, you are actually trying to rotate the tire forward OR rotate the axle housing backwards. Equal but opposite forces on both.
Weight transfer while accelerating automatically wants to squat the rear suspension. As the suspension squats, which direction does the axle housing rotate? Is it trying to fight the suspension squatting or helping it squat more?
Try to process and visualize that, you’ll understand.
