“The fun truck” build/rebuild

Thefuntruck

Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2023
Messages
74
Location
Palm Springs
Hey guys,
I’ve been loving this forum and figured I’d share some on going with my 91 ranger.
It already had a lot of work done to it. Most of it was really good. Some was, rushed I would say and needs so attention.
It’s a 91, 3.0, 5speed.
Front has camburg 4.5over beams with camburg rad arms and engine cage, King 2.5’s and bilstein bumps. Has later model ranger spindles with the bigger brakes.
Rear had f31 deavers and a full bed cage, explorer rear end w/limited slip, disc brakes.
Cab has cage up to B pillar, tied into bed cage and frame.
How I bought it.


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Plans have been focus on general maintenance/upkeep to get truck back to reliable usable form first.
I have a tendency to take a useable decent project and rip it apart and rebuild the whole car. Making them useless for a year or more which is not as fun for my kids.
Keeping this drivable while upgrading is a important.
The truck passed smog but the stock air intake was toast. So I built a new intake that will work for now until the battery gets moved to the back. 333F3E59-A4C5-488F-BC22-8FD043E10EE4.jpeg
I also have been slowing fixing some of the custom wiring. I removed the Amazon lights and installed a sealth Baja designs light bar behind the grill and replaced the mechanical fan with a electric fan and shroud. Cleaned up some of the switch back and battery wiring while in there. Did some basic service to the motor while under the hood. Also relocated the charcoal canister and removed the cruise control. I am keeping all the smog stuff because they are getting pretty struck out here.
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The front bumper needs some work. I like the look of it, but it need some welding help on the mounts and it’s a little crooked. I will address this when I’m doing some other fab work up front.

Any opinions on the square hoop? I’m not sure if I like it or not.

Continuing this novel….
The original tires were dry rotted so those were going. I always loved the outlaw 2’s on gutter rangers so that was a must. I came from buggies and I was a big fan of Yokohamas. I have them on my normal truck and most of the last desert cars. So I’m giving the m/t a try. They are very similar to the toyo and Yokohamas wear very well when you rotate them regularly so we will see.
The front wheel bearings were shot and the upper clamp bolts on the beams were loose and seized in. Causing play in the upper ball joint at the beam.

Replaced all the brakes and put some time into fixing the alignment clamps. Penetrant and heat got that resolved. I have new upper and lower ball joints but these currently don’t have any play so I will do those down the road.
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I did a few small things in the back like replace the stock tank filler neck and relocate it to make filling easier. I have a fuel cell for the truck but I’m leaving stock tank for now for smogging.
The stock rear taillight wiring was too short for the design with the tires in the back so i made a new sub harness to reroute everything and wired in the chase light to the blinkers and tail lights while I was back there. Very visible from the rear now. Plans in the rear are 64” deavers, bypasses, and bumps, but currently it works pretty well.

Next project on the list is the steering.CCDF2C2D-B6B9-4C43-9D5E-D2B581AF9688.jpeg
Stock steering is trash.
I’m going to be installing a Threat Motorsports single swing kit to get this under control. Also, will be rerunning the front brake lines down the rad arms. Thanks to the guys on here for input on how to do that.
We have had the truck out to some local spots but nothing major yet. Needs a bit more love before we make the trek to ocotillo or j-valley.

I’ll update as I go. Much appreciate the help I’ve received so far on here.
 
Looking at some of the work and stuff guys are doing here is unreal. Super humbled and very impressed. I don’t know where you guys find the time.

Small updates before we went out to koh.

Radiator started leaking Thursday before koh weekend one. Just replaced with stock because it was available that day. Wish I had done a larger one.

Got the quick release jack mount installed and made a custom jack handle holder. Copied the design from some I saw online. Also put the old fuel cell holder back in as a little storage rack for my cooler. 2C6C50C9-E569-4844-A4D2-4211D964FCEB.jpeg90087BAE-B3CA-4A5A-A2CD-521AE1B1FB59.jpeg

I’ve always liked having the Lowrance in my cars so spent way too much time making this one fit in the stock dash. Halfway through I almost ripped the dash out but I need to finish other stuff before that happens.
It came out ok and the built in gps clears the windshield perfect. No interruptions, nice to have correct speed and mapping. Koh service was trash so it was helpful.
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In an effort to salvage the bumper, I added a cross tube for lower support and a skid plate. Still going to pull it off and modify it. Needs a bunch of welding cleanup and repair but i think with some work it will be ok. E7A9F496-CF4C-46BE-AFC6-1AC6FCA0D0D2.jpeg

Replaced gear oil after koh this weekend. I had the breather plugged and I think it pressurized and blew out the Rtv. Never had that happen before. Need to run a long hose up to a remote breather on the frame otherwise the fluid over flows from the vent hole.

Next up are the auto fab motor and trans mount and threat swing steer.
 
Seems like I have got a lot done since the last post.
Built a new intake, relocated battery, got the swing steering done, replaced all the hiems in the front end, rewelded most of the front cage work best I could, added weld washers and new hardware for beam pivots and shocks, installed the autofab motor mounts. Currently working on the giant 64 kit, rear end truss and bypasses.
I also cut off the bumper because it was welded on like crap and I didn’t like how huge it was.
Anyone have any good examples of gutter ranger bumpers I can use for inspiration?
Thanks
 

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Killer tuck. Looks great. Move the rear shackle back so you have to force the spring on to the shackle, that pre-load helps a lot.
I dig the Link MS sticker on the back. Brandy made my machined I-beam ends 20 years ago.
 
Thanks Geoff,
Appreciate your help with setting up the swinger location and spring hangers. Your the man.

I wish giant made replacement spindles to get rid of the ball joint spindles…hint hint…
 
I was thinking about making a spindle like this but I would need to get 3 to 5 people interested to make it worth doing.
 

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That looks awesome. What a killer option that would be. No more ball joints or small bearings. What kind of hub is that or would you use?

I’m in and I’ll ask around to some other guys I know with the same setup.
 
Need some input.

These are 16” fully extended, about 5 1/4” too short. The springs are set up from droop where the driveshaft isn’t strained so this would be full droop strapped.

Should I build new upper mounts that are lower and keep the 16’s
Or get 18” and limit with still 2ish inches lost?

I have bumps I’m going to put on soon hopefully but that won’t change this.

Ideas?
 

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Need some input.

These are 16” fully extended, about 5 1/4” too short. The springs are set up from droop where the driveshaft isn’t strained so this would be full droop strapped.

Should I build new upper mounts that are lower and keep the 16’s
Or get 18” and limit with still 2ish inches lost?

I have bumps I’m going to put on soon hopefully but that won’t change this.

Ideas?
Throw them on at an angle or do a cantilever setup.

Sean
 
Isn't there a cardboard trick for finding the upper shock mount?
Intersecting arcs. Leave shock mounted to lower mount only. Push suspension up to max bump and shock all the way collapsed (leave 1/2”-5/8”). Draw arc using upper mounting point while pivoting shock toward cab.

Now repeat the process all full droop/shock fully extended. Where the arcs intersect is the sweet spot where all the shock travel is used for the corresponding leaf spring wheel travel.
 
Intersecting arcs. Leave shock mounted to lower mount only. Push suspension up to max bump and shock all the way collapsed (leave 1/2”-5/8”). Draw arc using upper mounting point while pivoting shock toward cab.

Now repeat the process all full droop/shock fully extended. Where the arcs intersect is the sweet spot where all the shock travel is used for the corresponding leaf spring wheel travel.
This is the way.
 
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