Wheel Studs - What size have you sheared off?

TX95Yota

TX95Yota

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Feb 28, 2023
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Boerne, TX
My 2WD Toyota pickup build has been upgraded from 5x4.5" to 6x5.5" hubs, so we increased the lug shear strength by 20% right off the bat. Stock studs are carbon steel M12x1.5, ARP makes chromoly M12x1.5 studs. There's also M14x1.5 and the popular 5/8-18 studs. I understand that bigger is better (within reason), but trying to make a logical decision on what will be sufficient for 95% of scenarios. Not trying to survive a direct boulder impact, but would like to size for normal spirited driving and sweet jumps.
My truck is going to be basically a class 2000 play truck, light weight, mostly driven in Ocotillo Wells, Superstition, Glamis, etc.
 
Do 5/8" and tighten your wheels 140 ft lbs (some guys go 165 ft lbs)

Or run what you brung... and don't let the wheels get loose ha ha!
 
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Make sure ur studs are properly shouldered for the wheels u are running as well. We run 5/8 and torque to 150 ft lbs. press ur studs in as well. Don't used the lug to pull them in. Check ur lugs often if driving in sand or chopy environments. From what I have seen most studs break because of those very reasons. 6 lug should be fine for most applications.
 
been years since ive been around the racing and we didnt have the huge motors back then, mostly class 2000 style stuff. Dan Vance and Fish racing MDR 1450, I do not recall what size lugs we had on those toyotas but on fishes truck the piece im sure it was stock everything and on Dans trucks i do not recall 5/8 stuff and back then i cannot recall stuff sheering or having lug issues. we only torqued to 75 /80 ft lbs and checked with a breaker bar or once in a blue moon a torque wrench at pit stops.

Personal shit i still torque to 80 ft lbs full size daily driver trucks, off road play 4runner 80 ft lbs. only time i have had loose lugs is when new steel wheels with powder coating on them and the lug seat would break through it. i would check after 100 miles re torque and call it good and probably not check until i did the brakes or just did it because i had the tool in my hand.

I love seeing all these people that sheer studs and just think to my self they have to be kinda sped or think wtf are they doing or not doing to sheer studs.

Gregg
 
Doubleggregg said:
been years since ive been around the racing and we didnt have the huge motors back then, mostly class 2000 style stuff. Dan Vance and Fish racing MDR 1450, I do not recall what size lugs we had on those toyotas but on fishes truck the piece im sure it was stock everything and on Dans trucks i do not recall 5/8 stuff and back then i cannot recall stuff sheering or having lug issues. we only torqued to 75 /80 ft lbs and checked with a breaker bar or once in a blue moon a torque wrench at pit stops.

Personal shit i still torque to 80 ft lbs full size daily driver trucks, off road play 4runner 80 ft lbs. only time i have had loose lugs is when new steel wheels with powder coating on them and the lug seat would break through it. i would check after 100 miles re torque and call it good and probably not check until i did the brakes or just did it because i had the tool in my hand.

I love seeing all these people that sheer studs and just think to my self they have to be kinda sped or think wtf are they doing or not doing to sheer studs.

Gregg
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i always think the same... never had an issue and ran stock all the way to 5/8... but i also drive slow.... sooooooo maybe that is why?
 
If they’re correctly torqued you’ll never have an issue with even the OEM studs. 5/8 just gives you a bigger margin for error.

I currently have 5/8 rear and stock 30yr old 12mm front. 12yrs of hammering on them with no issue. I’ve bent and broken wheels, studs are fine.
 
I’d go 14mm if you have an opportunity to make everything match and if you’re not making something to race on - 5/8 will limit your wheel choices without having to modify them. I’ve got 9/16 which is basically the same as 14mm and most Toyotas just went to 14mm vs the 12mm they used on all their midsized / mini trucks up until now.

12mm is fine for stock but they don’t offer a lot of meat on the lug nut mating surface with the wheel if you’re running tapered lug nuts.
 
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