King 2.5 standard coilover and king 2.5 extended travel coilover

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Hi I have some king 2.5 extended travel coilovers for my 1st gen Tacoma and I’m going long travel with total chaos but on the website it says that the extended travel coils are to short and will not work but standards will I’ve heard that the only difference is a spacer is there any way to put a spacer in and maybe a different spring to make my ext travel coils into standard 2.5s ?
 
you should buy true long travel spec 8” coilovers. Don’t try reusing what you have.
 
Hey man, I understand what you are asking after looking at the website so ill break it down a little, sorry for the confusion.

From the TC site:
TC specific 2.5" long travel coil over shocks bolt to the factory coil bucket location.

This means TC sells a specific coil-over for the Long Travel system.


Extended travel shocks are too short and will not work.
This is in reference to people who have the extended travel coil-overs that are on a vehicle with UCA's. Sometimes people think that because they have an "extended travel" shock that it will work with long travel which is not true. Long travel suspension systems need to be paired with long travel shocks.

There are some companies out there (the Burg) that make a "trail series" long travel kit which will work with stock replacement coil-overs and in theory it will work. The problem with using OE length coil-overs with extended control arms is that in order for the arms to cycle all of their travel, the coil-over needs to be mounted close to the pivot which means the motion ratio is very poor. Think of it as the shock having much more leverage on it so it has to do much more work meaning it would need to have a different spring rate, different valving and would be more prone to getting hot.
 
Oh okay thanks man that makes way more sense so getting a standard 2.5x8 king coil over for long travel would work
 
Oh okay thanks man that makes way more sense so getting a standard 2.5x8 king coil over for long travel would work

I am not 100% sure and would need to look but I know we sell a specific king coilover for that kit. I don't remember if its exactly an off the shelf 8" stroke because the resi hose and misalignment spacing may be different on an off the shelf. Our stuff uses 1.250" spacers top and bottom.
 
I was looking at the mcm fab long travel kit since it says it can run a standard length 8” coil over and honestly the price for going long travel and adding new coil overs and a secondary shock it gets expensive real quick. I’d really like to find out a set up to remove the preload on my current lift coil overs and still get the desired lift.
 
I was looking at the mcm fab long travel kit since it says it can run a standard length 8” coil over and honestly the price for going long travel and adding new coil overs and a secondary shock it gets expensive real quick. I’d really like to find out a set up to remove the preload on my current lift coil overs and still get the desired lift.
Keep in mind you dont HAVE to run a coilover and a secondary shock to have a well performing truck! We have revalved plenty of of "Mild" build prerunners with single shocks that jam! as well as quite a few 4runners with bolt in rear shocks that work surprisingly well for how limited they are.
 
Keep in mind you dont HAVE to run a coilover and a secondary shock to have a well performing truck! We have revalved plenty of of "Mild" build prerunners with single shocks that jam! as well as quite a few 4runners with bolt in rear shocks that work surprisingly well for how limited they are.
Now I guess I need to find a kit in my price range and a coilover that works with said kit that gives me the lift to match my rear h70’s to where I don’t look like I’m doing yard work or if I was in South Carolina. I’d be tempted to change the upper mount to run even a longer or just universal mounting coil over. I came from an xj witch was easy to make work really well and have no clue about these and there’s not a lot of info or videos on these.
 
we installed some f 67's on a 1st gen extra cab tacoma with a bypass in the rear, front had a bolt in coilover, secondary shock, and a bump stop on a basically stock front end. did a little bit of shock tuning and it worked surprisingly well! Theres some video of it jamming on our instagram. these are some photos of something we are designing for the 4th gen 4runners right now that get rid of that stock shock mount/upper arm bucket and allow you to run a traditional coilover without the conversion top plates. obviously not a simple setup, but you for sure have options! just depends on how far you wanna go haha
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we installed some f 67's on a 1st gen extra cab tacoma with a bypass in the rear, front had a bolt in coilover, secondary shock, and a bump stop on a basically stock front end. did a little bit of shock tuning and it worked surprisingly well! Theres some video of it jamming on our instagram. these are some photos of something we are designing for the 4th gen 4runners right now that get rid of that stock shock mount/upper arm bucket and allow you to run a traditional coilover without the conversion top plates. obviously not a simple setup, but you for sure have options! just depends on how far you wanna go haha
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Just followed you on instagram so I can message directly. So many questions on coilovers.
 
we installed some f 67's on a 1st gen extra cab tacoma with a bypass in the rear, front had a bolt in coilover, secondary shock, and a bump stop on a basically stock front end. did a little bit of shock tuning and it worked surprisingly well! Theres some video of it jamming on our instagram. these are some photos of something we are designing for the 4th gen 4runners right now that get rid of that stock shock mount/upper arm bucket and allow you to run a traditional coilover without the conversion top plates. obviously not a simple setup, but you for sure have options! just depends on how far you wanna go haha
View attachment 22474 View attachment 22473
What's the benefit to getting rid of the coil bucket? Is it to run like a 10" dual rate?
 
Unless you’re ready to make at least a shock hoop and engine crossmember / brace it’s a lot of work for not a lot of benefit. You won’t gain a lot of travel and ideally a 12” shock bumping off the spindle will make a much better choice for spring choices and bump setup. If you’re starting the build, I’d focus more on the rear spring setup since that will be limiting your performance way more than the difference between an 8/10/12” shock in front. If you’re a reader there’s over 35 1st Gen LT front and rear build threads and if not there are also all the 1st Gen built to destroy videos linked in the first three posts I made here:

 
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What's the benefit to getting rid of the coil bucket? Is it to run like a 10" dual rate?
as 4xfooroffroad stated, it is a bit more work to get a longer shock in there, even with a 10" shock your still most of the time going to be limited to a tender spring and a lower spring a 12 would be ideal in most cases but takes a bit of fab work and cutting to get them in there. another benefit is the added size of the shock, more shock=more oil, more oil means you can push on the truck for longer periods of time before experiencing shock fade (your performance will vary based on valving and a few other things in this aspect.) long story short! build in stages and in a way where you can enjoy the truck along the way, I have valved/tuned multiple trucks with a bolt on kit and bolt on shocks that absolutely JAM. and as you gain comfort in the truck, upgrade accordingly.
 
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