Bench build/hypothetical shock set up for first gen explorer

[HarrisConcepts]

Hey all,
So i have been pondering some different shock/ suspension options for a 4 door 4wd first gen explorer. For the sake of discussion, d44 full size swap on the front, traditional 4 link in the rear. Primary use will be trail exploration, light pre-running/ chase/ spectating for 4 full size adults and a cooler etc. im wondering if a single 3” coil over, and air bump would be sufficient? Maybe stepping up to an IBP option? I remember some of the older si/newline/kibbe/plank rangers and f150’s ( grey truck/ big bird maybe) ran a single c/o up front and some on the rear also. They may have had a super wazoo race shock im not familiar with. Im not looking to smash Barstow main, but just thinking about packaging limitations with the suv. Any thoughts and opions are appreciated.

 

[the bodj]

It doesn’t take much to get these to work awesome. A single coilover will do a lot, an IBP will do even more. Cookcraft has been developing stuff for this platform that seems to work great.

 

[84projectFORD]

Very hard to beat a single 3.0 king ibp. That’s all I’m running on the front of mine with a 2.0 bump to help out but even then, I don’t know that it’s really required. I just had them from a previous purchase years ago

 

[HarrisConcepts]

Absolutely! Ive seen several builds with a single shock up front, but was curious if a larger diameter, single shock would hang on the rear. And i get there are a ton of factors ( motion ratio, vehicle weight, tire size, driving style etc) that will play into the performance/ longevity etc. thanks for the input

 

[DialedShockPrep]

Absolutely yes. Two of my good friends have built fullsize trucks that ran a single 3.0” coilover in the rear with a 4” bump and they worked very well. Granted you don’t get the progression through the travel like you do a bypass shock but with that said they could both still go down Main at a decent pace, and cruise thought most stuff pretty comfortably. Really rough square edge hits they don’t favor too well due to not having a “bump zone”, and big rolling G outs same deal. BUT as long as you have +12” up travel in the rear from ride height it’ll work well regardless. Definitely better than a leaf setup

 

[HarrisConcepts]

Thanks for the info! I will shoot for the 12” mark on up travel, i am planning on staying with 35’s for now, but will most likely will try to trim/build for 37”s so i have the option in the future. From what i can tell, full bump on a big tire will be REAL close to the bottom of rear side windows. So we’ll see how that goes

 

[Chancegoodman]

I mean if you are up for a challenge you could go with a mezzanine arm set up on the rear I’ve seen a few suv type run them and they work really well

 

[HarrisConcepts]

I have thought alot about some type of mezzanine arm or a bellcrank set up, and depending on how far the snow ball rolls out of control, it is somthing i may look at more seriously. I remember a couple explorers from SD area, i caro fabworks built one and trac performance the other that were both mezzi armed, and were pretty cool. This will all be garage fab (Cardboard Aided Design), so i am a bit leary of the geometrical nightmare of mezzi/ bellcrank/ cantilever stuff, but it may be a good option

 

[the_fablab_]

A cantilever would be an idea setup on a non full size SUV you want 4 adults to fit in. Good luck getting a traditionally setup 4 link and two fullsize rear sets to fit.

Not a fan of King or Fox IBP. Not easily adjustable for a non shock guru. Another good option to check out is ADS MBR shock offering. They are a 3.0 internal bypass/coilover. They are completely adjustable internally by adjusting the bypass rings and traditionally with shock shims, but they also have dual recirculating hoses and 4 way external adjustability on the reservoir for high and low compression and rebound adjustment, which makes them more user friendly for a normal person. a single MBR at each corner would be an ideal setup for a squishy prerunner/trail rig

Also I would strongly consider sticking to Dana 35 beams on your setup. The aluminum center section of the Dana 35 is pretty stout as most peoples complaints about the Dana 35 isn't the ring and pinion its the shitty wheel hub design and tiny outer u joints. To remedy those issues I would suggest running Dana 44 knuckles. Cheaper and easier to retrofit on a truck already designed for Dana 35 beams, lighter so unsprung weight makes shock tuning easier.

 

[marcytech]

From my experience of owning a si truck I think the secret to their single front coilover set up is the 4 link geometry. They have very little antisquat meaning under gas they have tons of rear weight transfer. The fronts not doin much so you’re not missing out on much not having a bypass up front.


Before the ranger I had a Silverado crew cab with a single 3.0 coilover 4 link and single 2.5 shock on a mazzulla front end. For what the truck was intended for it was awesome and highly recommend it if you’re not intending to race. Not hearing bypasses so so underrated for a fun play truck

 

[the bodj]

I basically combined both of their ^^^ posts into my truck. Small crew cab truck, beams and simple links with low antisquat numbers, single 2.5 coilover at each corner (what I could afford) + hydro bumps. I definitely have room to improve with the valving, but in the two seasons of having the truck all I have done are plug some bleed screws.

 

[HarrisConcepts]

That is one of my biggest hang-ups with a traditional 4 link is the rear shock location. Even running a single rear shock down the trailing arm( borderline short course set up), the shock is still in the door opening, which means crowding the rear seats together, and doing some type of enclosure, so it makes things tight for entry and exit as well. I will definitely look into the ads stuff, i am not real familiar with their products.

 

[84Prerunner]

I have a single IBP on the front of my truck, been running a single front shock for over 10yrs but I do have bypasses sitting in the garage for it. If I had to do it again I’d do a traditional bypass over an IBP.
I run a 2.0 C/O and 3.5 bypass on the rear. I’d never even consider a single IBP on the a link setup.