93 xtra cab 5 lug

Dat85pu

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Dec 31, 2024
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Hello guys im new to the forum and to building prerunners i have a 1993 toyota pickup xtra cab with TC 5 lug long travel kit in the front and spring under deavers in the rear I bought the truck maybe 10 years ago and its been sitting since finally decided to get around to it and rebuild her entirely any suggestion or how should i do it differently? The front shock hoop was notched to fit the brake booster but i plan to cut that out and re do them
I want to add bump stops and limit straps any suggestions are welcome
 

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I pulled the engine out since the one of the head studs was missing odly enough the truck ran fine but i want to get that fixed the engine is a built 3vze from d.o.a is what the previous owner told me planning on pulling rod cap and mains to see the wear on the engine and reseal it entirely
 
Thanks for the illustration i was thinking of cutting the hoop out entirely
I vote for not cutting the hoop out. Either plate in the little clearance notch or add a mitered tube.

This is a super cool simple truck. Change/modify as little as possible and get the truck running and enjoy it before motivation departs.
 
I vote for not cutting the hoop out. Either plate in the little clearance notch or add a mitered tube.

This is a super cool simple truck. Change/modify as little as possible and get the truck running and enjoy it before motivation departs.
Thanks will take this into consideration
 
Cut the hoop out flush with the frame and use a tube notcher to offset notch where the bird mouth is, then fill in with a piece of tube save size as the hole saw.
 
Whatever works to be able to remove the booster - those 4 studs in it are not that short and you should plate in your motor mount perches and see if Solid Motorsports or someone else makes solid mounts for the 3vz or if you can use ones from the 5vz which should probably works - there’s a couple options at least for the 5vz and they essentially share the block.
 
Whatever works to be able to remove the booster - those 4 studs in it are not that short and you should plate in your motor mount perches and see if Solid Motorsports or someone else makes solid mounts for the 3vz or if you can use ones from the 5vz which should probably works - there’s a couple options at least for the 5vz and they essentially share the block.
Ive had several people tell me to go solid mount whats the benefit in a prerunner wouldnt that vibrate the truck like crazy bec i want to daily and the booster has a 1 inch spacer i removed the booster by un bolting the cab and lifting her up
 
Hmm “I’m worried about vibrations in my daily” and “I lift the cab to remove my booster” usually don’t refer to the same guy’s ride.

Solid mounts aren’t needed if you’re cruising flat roads, but driving hard and fast and jumping your truck, they protect your engine from getting enough momentum with the stock cushion mounts to kiss the radiator or pogo on the frame perch and flatten it out. Just Google “broken motor mount Tacoma / 5vz.” Same flimsy frame perches and cushion style mounts despite yours being a 93 3vz.
 
Hmm “I’m worried about vibrations in my daily” and “I lift the cab to remove my booster” usually don’t refer to the same guy’s ride.

Solid mounts aren’t needed if you’re cruising flat roads, but driving hard and fast and jumping your truck, they protect your engine from getting enough momentum with the stock cushion mounts to kiss the radiator or pogo on the frame perch and flatten it out. Just Google “broken motor mount Tacoma / 5vz.” Same flimsy frame perches and cushion style mounts despite yours being a 93 3vz.
Fair enough probably wont be my daily then ill definitely look into solid mount thank you
 
Whatever works to be able to remove the booster - those 4 studs in it are not that short and you should plate in your motor mount perches and see if Solid Motorsports or someone else makes solid mounts for the 3vz or if you can use ones from the 5vz which should probably works - there’s a couple options at least for the 5vz and they essentially share the block.
Do you have any photos of plated motor mount perches?
 
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If the bottom is open, definitely box it in and I’d recommend reinforcing the ears since they tend to be another weak link.

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After a truck’s been long traveled on stiffer coilovers and leaf springs and on off road tires with a bunch of tubes on the frame tying it together, I don’t think solid motor mounts make a huge difference in overall in shakes and rattles. And they are poly mounts, so not a true equivalent to just making a bracket to the frame from the engine.

You could most likely make your own if your oem mount brackets are stamped and not cast steel. Early Tacoma mount brackets were cast and around 99 they changed to stamped steel. Idk about pre-95 trucks however. That’s all the guy that makes these does - boxes in the oem mounts and runs a little poly bushing / sleeve to a new frame side bracket that mounts to the frame perch. I would be surprised if you couldn’t find all of the parts at Kartek he makes them with.

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If the bottom is open, definitely box it in and I’d recommend reinforcing the ears since they tend to be another weak link.

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After a truck’s been long traveled on stiffer coilovers and leaf springs and a off road tires with a bunch of tubes on the frame tying it together, I don’t think solid motor mounts make a huge difference in overall in shakes and rattles. And they are poly mounts, so not a true equivalent to just making a bracket to the frame from the engine.

You could most likely make your own if your oem mount brackets are stamped and not cast steel. Early Tacoma mount brackets were cast and around 99 they changed to stamped steel. That’s all the guy that makes these does - boxes in the oem mounts and runs a little poly bushing / sleeve to a new frame side bracket that mounts to the frame perch. I would be surprised if you couldn’t find all of the parts at Kartek he makes them with.

View attachment 32341Thanks man this is definitely going on the list of things to do. So much to learn slowly but surely
 
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