Recent content by DialedShockPrep

Not exactly the same as the BMS lock rings but a similar approach.. My old Ranger kingpin spindles used a threaded pinch bolt style collet as the spindle/bearing nut. Tighten it to where you wanted, then crank down the allen screw so the nut bites down onto the threads. I never had one come lose...

Traxxas! It’s the TRX4M F150 body, it just so happens that the Little Guy RAcing Products SCX24 chassis and axle set is very very close in wheelbase.

Side note, do you live in Fullerton?

I guess since I’m here. I’ve got 3 Scx24 based crawlers, only two complete currently. Losi Super Baja Rey 2.0 Traxxas Slash 4x4 Most are shelf queens, light duty use. I enjoy the build and tinkering on them here and there.

The best thing I’ve done on mine is a +6mm brass or aluminum axle set, with overdrive front gears and a good steering servo. I have the OGRC brand from amazon if you can find them, absolutely no complaints and it was a complete game changer for how these things turn and drive

On main and tender setups, you’ll set ride height with the crossover rings, and then droop the truck out and add 1” preload to the main preload collar. You can add more preload with the main collar, you just want to ensure that it won’t coil bind aka the slider stop rings lock out the slider...

Well that makes things significantly easier than! I’d go that route. I could be wrong but you should be able to run just about anyone’s Dana 44 beam set, and factory spindles if you wanted to. There’s ways to do this more cost effectively parts wise as long as you can reasonably get the...

He paid Richer/Cho to do the work. They basically finalized all of the fab and everything and he tore it all apart for final assembly, coating, and the small stuff like brake lines and such. He’s into it all about 45k with a new Moruzzi motor, Atlas, floater rear end, etc etc.

Bring the truck over, I’ll do that for you. Realistically, the 09+ F150’s and raptors have some of the worst front ends out there geometry wise, next to Tundras and some Tacomas. And i mean that in a sense of up and down movements limits, not camber/caster/toe. Wide wide frame, short stubby...

You have high angle misalignment spacers on the heims at the swingers, get regular bearing reducers with a narrower spread and you’ll be able to make the swingers narrower

this might help you out with packaging as well, but on my truck and Marcels, and a handful of others, the link that connects the pitman arm/box to the system is tied to the centerlink between the swingers. This helps with packaging and as long as you run wobble stops over the spacers it’s fine...

That all makes way more sense now! Haha CookCraft did just finish up a green explorer with Dana 35 beams and 44 knuckles, with crossover steering and i believe it had a ram assist. I will see if i can get any photos of his setup. I also recall him saying that the Dana 44 knuckles have the tie...

Out of shear curiosity and for simplicity sake, why not just purchase something like the Ohcho Fab TTB dual swingers setup with crossmember? Maybe i am confused but i dont see why you shouldn’t be able to utilize a F150/Bronco Dana 44 steering kit since that is essentially what you have up...

Clifford was one of my good buddies 96 F150 4x4, cut and turn stock width beams, and somewhere between short course and traditional link styles. I could also argue that this truck brought the whole “Short course link” thing alive since there really wasn’t a happy medium between spring under and...

Simply put, you can’t really beat the additional surface area of a larger piston. Sure TWO pistons is good, but I’d still rather have one larger piston over two “smaller” pistons. I’ve setup TTB trucks with basically every setup you can think of from 2.0” coilovers and 2.5” bypasses to 3.0”s...