Down For Mobbing
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- Nov 2, 2022
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Upgrading the suspension on a go-fast prerunner isn’t just about making your truck look cool—it’s about enhancing performance and stability, especially when pushing the truck to its limits in the desert or on a race track. Adding a swaybar to the rear suspension is one of the most crucial steps to improve handling, particularly in tight rutted-out corners or short-course tracks like Glen Helen Raceway. In this blog, we’ll break down the steps we took to install the 74 Weld swaybar on our 1993 Ford Ranger prerunner.
You can choose to build your own swaybar using plans from DIY off-road website, or you can go with a pre-built kit from a manufacturer like 74 Weld. We opted for the 74 Weld swaybar kit, and here's how we installed it.
At this point, we were conscious of the weight distribution in the back half of the truck, as we already had several components behind the axle that were helping with balance. We didn’t want to add unnecessary weight, but this was the best location for the swaybar, as it cleared the exhaust and wouldn’t impact the truck’s overall setup.
We tacked the arms in place and made sure they matched the length of the 74 Weld arms. This was an important step to ensure proper fitment, as using the correct arm length is crucial for the swaybar's performance.
Once we had the arms in place, we measured the length of the linkage we needed and cut some 3/4" tube to use as our mock-up linkage. At this point, we also wanted to make sure the shocks could be removed without disconnecting the swaybar, so we removed the limit straps and then started pulling the shocks off. We needed an additional 1" of droop after removing the limit straps to allow for shock removal with the swaybar still connected.
Another critical check was making sure the swaybar arms weren’t too vertical at full bump. If the arms are positioned too straight up and down, they won’t rotate properly as the truck droops. This can place excess downward load on the support bar and cause stress on the system. To avoid this, we ensured the arms leaned forward slightly, so they would fall back down naturally as the suspension moved.
When I realized I had grabbed 1/4" plate instead of 3/16", I adjusted the plan and decided to use a single 1/4" plate centered in the tube, rather than boxing it in as originally planned. After welding the plate onto both sides of the cage, the mounts were secure and ready for the swaybar installation.
Next, I picked up the swaybar, bushings, weld-in bungs, heims, and other hardware from Kartek in Corona, CA. With everything in place, we assembled the swaybar, painted it, and cycled the truck one more time to ensure it was functioning as expected.
Stay tuned to DownForMobbing.com for more off-road builds, tech tips, and updates on this Ranger’s desert adventures. And if you’re planning your own suspension upgrade, make sure to take the time to properly mock up and test everything—it makes all the difference when it’s time to hit the dirt!
Why Add a Swaybar to Your Prerunner?
When you 4-link a truck, you gain the ability to make the truck faster and handle better. One fun perk of a 4-link setup is the ability to 3 wheel on street corners, but this isn’t ideal when you’re tackling big, rutted-out corners in the desert. That’s where a rear swaybar comes in. While swaybars can be added to the front, they’re typically placed in the rear for better packaging and functionality. Adding a swaybar keeps the truck stable and helps prevent unwanted body roll during aggressive cornering and high-speed runs.
You can choose to build your own swaybar using plans from DIY off-road website, or you can go with a pre-built kit from a manufacturer like 74 Weld. We opted for the 74 Weld swaybar kit, and here's how we installed it.
Step 1: Stripping Down the Truck and Planning Placement
The first step was stripping the aluminum panels off the truck to see where we could fit the swaybar. After checking the available space, we decided the best location was between the batteries and the fuel cell. These parts are crucial to the truck's performance, so we needed to ensure the swaybar was mounted securely and wouldn’t cause any damage if it were to break. Additionally, we needed to avoid interfering with the exhaust that was mounted on the outside of the back half.At this point, we were conscious of the weight distribution in the back half of the truck, as we already had several components behind the axle that were helping with balance. We didn’t want to add unnecessary weight, but this was the best location for the swaybar, as it cleared the exhaust and wouldn’t impact the truck’s overall setup.
Step 2: Mocking Up the Swaybar Parts
With the placement sorted, it was time to mock up the parts. We visited our local IMS metal supply store in Riverside, CA, where we found the tubing and materials we needed: 1.75" 120 DOM tubing, 1.5" 120 DOM tubing, 1.25" 120 DOM tubing, 3/16" plate, and angle iron. The idea was to use the 1.75" tube as the main support that would hold everything together. The 1.5" tube would act as the pivot bushing, with a 1.25" inside diameter and a 1.5" outside diameter, which would support the 1.25" mock up swaybar. We slid the 1.5" tube inside the 1.75" tube, and then slid the 1.25" tube inside the 1.5" tube. This setup allowed the 1.25" tube to spin freely inside the 1.5" tubing, which would be used to mock up the swaybar arms.We tacked the arms in place and made sure they matched the length of the 74 Weld arms. This was an important step to ensure proper fitment, as using the correct arm length is crucial for the swaybar's performance.
Step 3: Adjusting for Clearance and Cycling
Next, we needed to check the clearance of the swaybar and its linkage. To do this, we drooped the truck out with the limit straps tight and examined the angle of the arms. At full droop, the swaybar linkage and arms must not be in a straight path with each other, as this could cause the setup to hyperextend, leading to failure. We made sure the arms were positioned so they wouldn’t interfere with each other during full suspension travel.Once we had the arms in place, we measured the length of the linkage we needed and cut some 3/4" tube to use as our mock-up linkage. At this point, we also wanted to make sure the shocks could be removed without disconnecting the swaybar, so we removed the limit straps and then started pulling the shocks off. We needed an additional 1" of droop after removing the limit straps to allow for shock removal with the swaybar still connected.
Step 4: Finalizing the Setup and Testing
With everything mocked up, it was time to cycle the truck while keeping an eye on everything. We noticed that the rear end was shifted 1/4" to the driver’s side, so we squared it up at ride height and continued cycling the suspension to full bump. During this phase, we also made sure the swaybar arms wouldn’t make contact with the exhaust running along the top of the back half of the truck.Another critical check was making sure the swaybar arms weren’t too vertical at full bump. If the arms are positioned too straight up and down, they won’t rotate properly as the truck droops. This can place excess downward load on the support bar and cause stress on the system. To avoid this, we ensured the arms leaned forward slightly, so they would fall back down naturally as the suspension moved.
Step 5: Building the Mounts and Final Assembly
After ensuring everything was in place, we moved on to building the mounts to support the swaybar within the cage. We started by creating a cardboard template for the mounts and then transferred this to a 3/16" plate. Since I didn’t have access to a plasma cutter or a stand-up bandsaw, I used a circular saw with a metal-cutting blade to cut the plate. Surprisingly, it worked really well.When I realized I had grabbed 1/4" plate instead of 3/16", I adjusted the plan and decided to use a single 1/4" plate centered in the tube, rather than boxing it in as originally planned. After welding the plate onto both sides of the cage, the mounts were secure and ready for the swaybar installation.
Next, I picked up the swaybar, bushings, weld-in bungs, heims, and other hardware from Kartek in Corona, CA. With everything in place, we assembled the swaybar, painted it, and cycled the truck one more time to ensure it was functioning as expected.
Conclusion: The Swaybar Setup is Ready for the Desert
With the swaybar fully installed and everything cycled, we were confident that our 1993 Ford Ranger prerunner is now better equipped for handling those tough desert ruts and tight corners. The key to this setup was making sure that every step, from mock-up to final assembly, was done with care and precision. We made sure the swaybar wouldn’t interfere with vital components, checked for clearance at every stage, and ensured the arms and linkage were positioned perfectly.Stay tuned to DownForMobbing.com for more off-road builds, tech tips, and updates on this Ranger’s desert adventures. And if you’re planning your own suspension upgrade, make sure to take the time to properly mock up and test everything—it makes all the difference when it’s time to hit the dirt!
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