Fox OEM Live Valve delete

philofab

philofab

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Joined
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Mohave Valley
I was gifted some Raptor R shocks from a friend (all my friends have Rs) and I'd like to use the rears on my 1985 Gen 1 Raptor.

RPG makes a delete kit for $200. Whats stopping me from removing the live valve that's on the shock and modifying it to act the same? I'm told the valves default shut which is 100% valving where the deletes are 0%.

I'd prefer to save money if I can or maybe there is a way to make it an external adjuster? The schraders are no big deal as you can buy them separate or just drill / tap.
 
RothShocks said:
You have to do the delete of you just pull the solenoid it becomes a bumpstop
Click to expand...

I understand that. Why can I not remove the valve that comes with the shock and drill/machine/gut it? I have a mill, lathe, cnc plasma, grinders, and a crescent wrench.

I'd buy the parts if I can get them from a company other than RPG for non rape prices.

I suppose I could just machine my own deletes if I have to. Then I can sell to everyone as most companies won't deal with RPGs bullshit anymore.
 
I’ll buy some if you figure it out I’m not a fan of the company anyway the live valve pistons are extremely restrictive which is lame but you can make it work
 
So when I rebuild my rzr shocks, they have live valves, I have a 12ft jumper harness from the car to the shock and I set the car in comfort to even open the shock (cannot compress the head seal to remove the snap ring at full stiff).

Anyway I'm not exactly sure how they work butttt you mayyyybee could use a potentiometer wired to a PWM generator to mimic the controller’s signal. Turning the knob would adjust the duty cycle and control the solenoid’s firmness. It wouldn't be dynamic but it would be cool to have an adjustable firmness knob... I also don't know the frequency ford uses but I'd say just 500 Hz.
 
I just took them apart. You can just take the valve spring and plunger out and drill the valve to you liking or just pull the whole thing all together.
 
philofab said:
I just took them apart. You can just take the valve spring and plunger out and drill the valve to you liking or just pull the whole thing all together.
Click to expand...
Smart. I would have spent months f'ing with the electronics to get to this conclusion.
 
Take these extra parts out to have a live act like the solenoid is 100% open.

Drill the piece left inside to increase flow.
 

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2012SVTSC said:
So when I rebuild my rzr shocks, they have live valves, I have a 12ft jumper harness from the car to the shock and I set the car in comfort to even open the shock (cannot compress the head seal to remove the snap ring at full stiff).

Anyway I'm not exactly sure how they work butttt you mayyyybee could use a potentiometer wired to a PWM generator to mimic the controller’s signal. Turning the knob would adjust the duty cycle and control the solenoid’s firmness. It wouldn't be dynamic but it would be cool to have an adjustable firmness knob... I also don't know the frequency ford uses but I'd say just 500 Hz.
Click to expand...

Normally on a solenoid you need a large in rush of current to move the plunger and then a smaller current to hold the plunger or it creates a lot of heat. Old pinball machines have a hold circuit on the leaf spring switches for this very reason. The solenoid shouldn't need pwm just to open for bleeding.
 
philofab said:
Normally on a solenoid you need a large in rush of current to move the plunger and then a smaller current to hold the plunger or it creates a lot of heat. Old pinball machines have a hold circuit on the leaf spring switches for this very reason. The solenoid shouldn't need pwm just to open for bleeding.
Click to expand...
Maybe not, it was just my solution to open the vavle at the time.
 
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