Recent content by Brett_408

I also use a battery hand drill (Milwaukee) on the slower #1 setting. No lube DRY BABY to much mess to clean out of the tube. Never have catching issues. Used the same 1 3/4" hole saw the entire front half build of my tundra.

Don't cheap out! Do it right, we don't wanna be stranded in the desert chasing your electrical problems!

What program do you recommend for doing exactly what you just explained? Fusion or Solidworks? Everything I do is templates and bandsaw but I've been wanting to draw stuff on the computer and use send cut send more for bigger pieces?

They were in fact race series. The top caps are engraved with the "KING" logo rather then etched onto the anodizing.

Couple finished pics. With the license plate relocation.

As of last season they had filled the bottom in with rock and it was either dry or very shallow every time iv seen it since

Thanks appreciate that

If anyone is running or has a suggestion on coil rate and lengths I'm all hears. Trying to get an idea for a base line or starting point for valving and coils to get me at least in the ball park. Ill be running 3.0x14 fox's, no bypasses. 4.5" over beams.

Did you build any sort or fixture for the beams when you did all the welding? Did you weld with the 3rd bolted up to keep the sealing surface from distorting? They look great!

That would be awesome thank you

If the fab lab doesn't sell his of course

Richer Racing offers a bolt on shock tower designed for 3.0x14 coil overs. Also I believe @Giant Geoff shock towers work for 14's.

It does not. 33's aren't to bad for the stock tire gates and the next tire I'll do will probably be 37's so i will be ditching the stock gate at that point.

Hopefully its still a good turn out now that its all the way up at Lazor Town

Nice work! They look good